After a lot of speculation over the weekend, according to Grimper the police have released an image of a quickdraw slung like those that were responsible for the tragic death of Tito Traversa last week. As you can see, the only thing holding the top biner to the dog bone is the rubber band which is not meant to hold a climber’s weight.
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According to reports, 8 of Tito’s 12 quick draws were slung like this and they happened to be the last 8 he used which is what led to his fatal ground fall.
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Hopefully this accident can serve as powerful reminder for us all to be more diligent about checking all our gear, whether it’s our own or it’s gear brought by someone else, or, increasingly, it is gear of unknown origin left on a climb for all to use.
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Many of us may think that we would never had made this particular mistake, and that may be so, but there are plenty of other areas where mistakes can be made.
Those draws are terrifying, but I’m a bit confused. Doesn’t the article indicate that this draw was provided by the police as an example of how the quickdraws could have been slung, and not necessarily as a concrete example of the configuration that was used in the accident?
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My interpretation was that these are not the exact draws, but they are setup in a way to recreate how the actual draws from the accident were setup
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Oh man, that’s so sad. And so preventable if one understands the equipment. Also, I’m not sure if it’s the person that put together this “replica draw” photo or the actual people involved with the accident that really screwed this up but the rubber keepers are supposed to be on the rope-end biner only as well. This photo shows them improperly installed on the bolt-end biner. I’m really sorry for Tito’s family and their loss.
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not necessarily, i rack a few of my quickdraws with the rubber holder on the bolt side to give me a little extra reach. its just an aid to help clip easier, rope or bolt.
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kj: I used to put a keeper on the bolt side of my quickdraws too. It seemed like a good idea, until I read this bit from the manual of my Wild Country quickdraws:
“The top end/straight gate karabiner (for clipping into the bolt hanger) must remain free to rotate in the quickdraw sling to reduce the chances of cross loading the gate. Do not restrict the movement of the top end/straight gate karabiner by modifying the quickdraw sling in any way, your life may depend on it!”
Source: http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/files/public/Instruction_Booklets/V5129_WC_BINERS_LEAFLET_AW3.pdf
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Thanks for posting that, Mark. That’s the one point I was getting at…the pictured setup is doubly-incorrect: rubber keepers should only be placed on the rope-end biner and they should be placed around the nylon and biner with the biner placed through the sewn nylon loop.
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wow! I hope you take from this that the rubber is not designed to hold any weight!
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If the images on grimper are actually indicative of the set-up, it almost seems like whoever set the draws up thought the rubber band was what held the sling to the carabiner. (Imagine feeding the string through the sling and then putting the string on the carabiner via the two holes) I can’t imagine a scenario with this type of string where the carabiner can get clipped back through the sling resulting in this set-up. The images describing the open sling dangers always show the sling still wrapped around the carabiner in some form
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These can’t be “the exact draws” because the exact draws were pulled apart during the accident.
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The article states they are not the exact draws. However, it would be possible to zipper through the top 4 or 5 draws and ground out before the remaining draws would be tensioned.
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Based on the way the draws failed, they wouldn’t be pulled apart in any way that would mean they couldn’t be reused. The only thing that actually failed was the rubber piece.
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Alright, Phunk, it’s time for a lesson from Dr. Ian: Identity can be about types or tokens — look the distinction up. It’s clear from the context that type identity was being ascribed, and so they can indeed be the exact same draws. If you’re going to be snide and nit-picky, you should at least be sure you’re on solid nit-picking ground.
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If I remember correctly, there was a fatal fall here in the US several years ago by the same mechanism. I believe it happened at the New River Gorge. It really is tragic.
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http://climbingnarc.com/2010/06/accident-at-new-river-gorge-offers-learning-experience/
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He should have checked hi equipment
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This is a horrible tragedy. My thoughts go out to his family. The fact that this could have been prevented makes it all the worse.
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These do not apear to be open slings in any way shape or form. And the video circulating regarding open slings although valid, is non related.
Training, instruction and common sense.
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It’s really a shame that one of the correctly slung draws wasn’t higher up on the route. Although if it had been I don’t know that we’d be talking about this right now…
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Please put a red X or circle with a slash through it or “WRONG” on the images! You never know if somebody will see these in google image search and not know the context of your article. Just one extra safety measure to make sure nobody ever sees this image without seeing a note indicating this is not safe.
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This link shows the incorrect and the correct way to attach the sling http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-the-tragedy-of-tito-traversa
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