Jonthan Siegrist Repeats Biographie (5.15a)

After a prolonged battle, Jonathan Siegriest has completed his hardest redpoint to date with a repeat of Chris Sharma’s Biographie (5.15a)1 in Céüse, France.

Biographie was immortalized for many of us in Dosage I as we saw the process Sharma went through to establish what was the first 5.15a in the world.  In fact, that video continues to be popular to this day thanks to Big Up posting it to Youtube a couple years back.

Click the image to watch Sharma on the FA of Biographie


Writing on his blog at the beginning of March, Siegrist talked about his motivations for going to France to work this route:

I’ve been dreaming of my return ever since I left 2 years ago, and furthermore, I’ve been anxiously planning for an objective. Since last December I’ve been approaching my climbing differently.
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For the first time in my climbing life I solicited the help of a trainer. I’ve quite dramatically changed the way I train – finally trying some new things. I’ve adjusted my lifestyle, and like I once did many years ago – in pursuit of my first 5.14s – I’ve anxiously looked ahead and worked hard towards a lofty goal.

So, as some of you know, I, in essence, came to France to climb Biographie, or as many Americans know it, Realization.
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I can remember the first time that I saw the route – it is truly magnificent. I was shocked to see that such a bold and impressive, seemingly perfect line exists. Add to that, the historic significance of this climb not to mention its unique and brilliant holds and movement — it really is a proud route. I trained to improve my climbing, not necessarily for this climb specifically, but I had it in mind all throughout. I’ve been here in France for a little more than a week, and already it has been an exciting journey.

On Sunday, Siegrist was able to realize the fruits of his dedication, training and talent to clip the chains.
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 An assortment of Instagram-ing ensued:

  1.  Sharma had originally called his route Realization as it was an extension to the existing route Biographie, and renaming a route like this is fairly common in the U.S.  However, the route Biographie as it existed in 2001 was really just an intermediate anchor to the full route that Sharma ended up doing.  That intermediate anchor has since been removed and most people seemed to want to call the full line Biographie anyway as that is the custom in the area, so that is what we’ll go with.

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7 Responses to Jonthan Siegrist Repeats Biographie (5.15a)

  1. Wex June 3, 2014 at 5:40 pm #

    As per your footnotes I don’t really get why people are so butt hurt when it gets called realization.

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  2. matt June 4, 2014 at 7:06 am #

    i concur. i saw something on *spray about the dude who bolted it passing away about 5 years ago, but a lot of people with FA’s have died.

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  3. Narc June 4, 2014 at 8:04 am #

    I think it’s a combination of a being a cultural thing and wanting to respect the memory of someone who had the incredible vision to bolt a route like Biographie years before it was possible for someone to climb it.

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  4. morgan June 4, 2014 at 10:18 am #

    I think that the person that puts the work and $$ in to equip a route should get to name it if they want to. I also think that they should be listed in the guidebook, rather than the FA, for sport climbs. It’s a ton of work, and it would reduce the annoying red-tag & secret crag culture.

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  5. Wex June 4, 2014 at 4:30 pm #

    Devils advocate here.
    I think the redpoint of the route can actually end up being more work including time and money. A hard line is bolted and the bolter try’s the moves a couple times but deems it too hard to keep on trying, then proceeds to open the project. The potential redpointer, depending on skill level can spend years trying the project on and off before the actual send. This may involve moving bolts around, still improving the route through cleaning. Not only is this a sizeable time and monetary investment but an emotional one as well.
    Vision for hard lines also can be misconstrued. I bolted a route recently and I thought it was going to be 13- and within in my redpoint range. In reality it’s closer to 14-. Not to demean myself but I can’t climb 14-. Thus, the repoint will go to someone stronger. I didn’t have some futuristic vision but made a mistake and bolted a route outside my physical capability.
    Anyone can have self-professed vision and bolt a route. Not everyone can climb the route.
    Really in the end who put more of an investment in the route?

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  6. morgan June 5, 2014 at 10:42 am #

    Redpointing a route is an almost 100% selfish activity, solely for ones own enjoyment. Equipping a route can be selfish also, but when you’re done, you’ve established something that potentially generations of people can enjoy. The money and sweat you spend redpointing doesn’t give anything back to the community, except perhaps as inspiration.

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  7. Wex June 5, 2014 at 1:17 pm #

    Redundant argument. Bolting can be argued as a selfish activity. People that bolt, ultimately, do it for their own enjoyment (No matter what they tell you). Personal enjoyment can be by having your own FA or from other people sending it and patting you on the back for taking time to bolt the line.

    Opposite agrument can be made for redpointing. By finally sending a hard line, it allows future generations a benchamrk to keep pushing their ability and standards thus giving back to the community.

    Both can be viewed as selfish or un-selfish but in the end both give back to the rock climbing community.

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