Archive | February, 2014

Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Men’s Qualifiers

Tune in this afternoon at 3 pm MST for live coverage of Men’s Qualifiers at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO

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Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Women’s Qualifiers

Tune in this morning at 9 am MST for live coverage of Women’s Qualifiers at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO

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Video Friday – 2/21/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week

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What I Know Now

Cool piece on The Stone Mind where a number of climbers share things they wish they had known when they started climbing.  I think I most identified with what Fitz Cahall had to say:

I wish had understood that failure is a pivotal part of the process. When I’m saying failure, I’m not talking about blowing onsights and sending a sport climb second go. I’m talking about wretched, abject butt kickings, the kind of thing that would have been embarrassing to report upon return to Camp 4.

For me it’s not so much that I never failed, but I don’t think I failed nearly enough.  Oftentimes I would play it safe while picking which routes or boulder problems to try, always playing it on the safe side trying things that seemed well within reach.  This works well enough in the short term, but long term I know it has limited the upside potential in my climbing.  How can you really hope to truly push your limits if you are afraid of getting close to them?

 

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Honnold & Caldwell Pull Off “Mother Of All Traverses” In Patagonia

Rolando Garibotti, reporting in a post on SuperTopo:

Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed “Fitz Traverse”, climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.

This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l’S.
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In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.
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11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.

Not bad for Honnold’s first visit to Patagonia.
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2014 ABS Nationals Streaming Live Friday & Saturday

Schedule for this weekend’s ABS Nationals which will be streamed live in its entirety

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Climbing Edition Of The Stars Are Just Like Us

Jakob Schubert, in a photo posted to Facebook during his current visit to Hueco Tanks:

In the end it wasn’t worth it though, at the second to last move I heard a loud noise and hoped a hold broke, but instead it was my finger.. seems like this climbing trip is over for me.. don’t have a diagnose yet but doesn’t feel good..

See, just like those trashy montages in Us Weekly, we have evidence that famous climbers are just like you and I and aren’t immune from injury.

Wait.  What’s that?  Oh. Schubert’s injury happened while he was en route to being the 3rd person to flash Nagual, the legendary Fred Nicole V13 on East Spur that has previously been flashed by Paul Robinson and Sean McColl.  

Hmm.  Well, if I ever tried that problem my fingers would probably explode too, except for me it would just be attempting to pull off the ground.  So yeah, maybe climbing stars aren’t quite like us…

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