Archive | November, 2013

→ Can Climbers Think More Clearly About Ethics?∞

Posted November 7, 2013 at 12:30 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Peter Beal weighs in on Junipergate:

I think Joe has received enough of a shellacking from everyone else and I consider him a friend so I am not going to deliver a sermon on why cutting the tree down was a bad idea. But I am going to take issue with his defenders who are among other things  betraying a fundamental lack of understanding of how the sport of climbing actually works.
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Fundamental to this is an understanding of the principal issues at stake in making ethical decisions, issues that many, in fact too many, internet commenters seem willfully ignorant of.
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→ The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3∞

Posted November 7, 2013 at 9:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap:

Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an easy way of freeing El Cap, and it’s a real achievement to even get up it at all.

In addition to her recent ascent of Freerider, Findlay has also freed the PreMuir and Golden Gate over the past few seasons.

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Dawn Wall 2013: So You’re Telling Me There’s A Chance

Posted November 7, 2013 at 7:22 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Don’t write off the 2013 Dawn Wall season just yet…

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Review & Giveaway: Patagonia’s Rover Shoe

Posted November 6, 2013 at 8:00 am · Comments { 0 } ·

A look at the new Rover shoes from Patagonia as well as an opportunity for you to win a free pair!

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→ Ondra, Kim Win In Valence∞

Posted November 5, 2013 at 10:05 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra puts the rest of the World Cup circuit on notice:

Valence in France: this was the stage chosen by Adam Ondra to celebrate his return to the Lead World Cup after three years of absence. And last night the 20-year-old from the Czech Republic could not have made a more convincing comeback, winning with the grit and class that enabled him, in 2009, to win the Lead World Cup in his debut year in senior competitions at a mere 16 years of age.

Sean McColl, who took 2nd for the men, has a nice recap of the event from his perspective that you can read here.  The full replay of the event can be seen here.

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→ Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 7:58 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham’s  The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he considers to be his hardest problem yet:

Every attempt was a gamble and I had to just give it my all. For most of my ascents, I can pin point when I am going to send.
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This one was not the case. I just convinced myself that one day would be the “lucky” day and I would never have to go back again.

Woods spent some 13 days working the problem before succeeding which, when you think about it, is really not that long in the grand scheme of things.  Imagine what he could do if he had to spend multiple years to complete a project.
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 Can a boulder problem that hard even exist?

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→ Foundation’s Edge∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 9:11 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Graham, writing for The Island about his FA of Foundation’s Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland:

It was an awesome climb. I battled it out, got super pumped, and didn’t kill myself falling off wet top out.
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19 moves, and about 12 meters long, and one my favorite pieces of climbing I have ever done.

The sequence is powerful and tensiony, yet flowing. I love the body positions you get into while you climb it. Very athletic, yet balancy.

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