Archive | March, 2013

2013

Posted March 29, 2013 at 7:15 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)

Posted March 28, 2013 at 9:06 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Paige Claassen, writing on her blog, after she achieved a longtime goal of repeating To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR:

This past weekend, I climbed the only route that I’ve cared to complete since I was little. To Bolt was an important milestone for me in many ways. Established in 1986 by Jean-Baptiste Tribout, America’s first 5.14 has held its grade for over 25 years.
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Repeats are somewhat rare, given the route’s staggering presence and accessibility in perhaps the nation’s best maintained State Park.
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But projecting To Bolt means signing up for mental warfare.

I’m definitely looking forward to seeing some video of this route.

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Smith Rock

2013 SCS Nationals Streaming Live April 6th

Posted March 27, 2013 at 10:07 am · Comments { 7 } ·

Set your calendars for the night of Saturday, April 6th

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Alex Megos’ Three Try Limit

Posted March 26, 2013 at 2:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):

In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.

The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.

I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.

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Alex Megos

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Chris Sharma Interviewed About La Dura Dura

Posted March 26, 2013 at 11:28 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Chris Sharma, in an interview with PlanetMountain, talking about his repeat of La Dura Dura (5.15c):

I must have spent a whole year trying the lower section, those 15 moves. Doing this was a really long process, mentally, because there’s a really hard iron cross move where I kept falling and when I finally did this, I then fell higher up.

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The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi

Posted March 25, 2013 at 11:35 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

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The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th¹ ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after Traversi repeated Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rocks back in February.