Archive | July, 2012

Ashima Visits Japan

Rock & Ice has a nice photo recap by Eddie Gianelloni of Ashima Shiraishi’s trip to Japan that saw her repeat climbs up to V10.

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First 5.14b For 11-Year-Old Brooke Raboutou

According to her 8a scorecard 11-year-old Brooke Raboutou has done her first 5.14b in Welcome To Tijuana at Rodellar, Spain.  This makes her the likely youngest to ever achieve such a grade and no doubt the shortest as well.  The 50-foot power endurance route Welcome to Tijuana is a popular first 5.14b as it was Brooke’s brother Shawn’s and Sasha DiGiulian’s first as well.  It only took DiGiulian 14 months to make the jump from her first 5.
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14b to climbing 5.14d, I wonder how long it will take Brooke??

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Hueco Rock Ranch Sold

Hueco Rock Ranch Sold

The Hueco Rock Ranch has been sold

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Video Friday – 7/13/2012

Video Friday – 7/13/2012

The top videos of the past week

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New Media From Black Diamond & The Island

New Media From Black Diamond & The Island

New eye candy from Black Diamond and the unveiling of the Island website

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Nalle Hukkataival Hits The Ground Running In Cape Town

Nalle Hukkataival fresh off the plane after the journey from Australia to South Africa:

I just made the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s V15, A Simple Knowing1, at Topside. I managed to climb it quickly in half an hour. It’s a nice problem, but once again nowhere near the difficulty that I consider V15. On a related note, here’s a photo of Livin’ Large…

Hukkataival registered A Simple Knowing at V13 on his 27Crags ticklist, and he registered repeats of two other Robinson FAs at Topside that he suggested downgrades for as well.

Update:  Well, Dave Graham has also repeated A Simple Knowing according to 27Crags, and apparently he and Hukkataival both found and used some better beta which explains the downgrade a bit better.  Graham had this to say on his 8a scorecard:

Awesome prow climbing with big tension moves, ending in a legendary ninja swoop! Props to Paul for FA, its a great problem! Took me two sessions to put er down, grace of the left heal-toe cam we worked out with the posse. It definitely felt like 8b+, even with the new method.

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More Age Is Just A Number News

Hard climbs from climbers both young and… not quite as young

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