Fresh off a trip to Font, Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort:
It’s a great problem on bulletproof granite and climbs extremely well. Every move requires lots of body tension and shoulder strength. It climbs very differently than granite usually does and it is more like a sandstone problem style-wise. I decided to name it Circus Elephant Syndrome and for the grade I’m proposing hard 8B+.
Two weekends in October down, three precious weekends to go. Do you know where your project is?
After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there:
On day two, Julian onsighted Living in Fear (5.13d), shaking out in the worst possible places, and making the super-sustained testpiece look like 5.10, according to witnesses. After onsighting Living, Julian returned to the Wicked Cave, and surprised himself by onsighting The Crew (5.14c), one of the hardest routes in the canyon. The performance surprised even Julian, who said that it was a true “a muerte” fight to the end. Some of the hardest moves on the route are right at the top, and are said to be especially hard if you’re short.
The Nat Geo Adventure blog checks in with Chris Sharma
News & Notes from Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, Sasha DiGiulian, Reno climbing walls, 50 year anniversaries and more…
While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it’s instructive to remember that many times the quest for new rock and new problems doesn’t always work out like we hope:
Honestly, while I would never like to return to the Not Worth It Boulders, it was totally worth going up there the first time to spend some time with friends. It has helped me to truly appreciate all of the hard work and vision needed for the people who have developed the climbing areas that I get to visit.
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I have spent many hours drooling over guide books wishing that I could have been the first person to climb some of the routes, but now I realize that I am pretty lucky to have all of the hard work done for me.
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An interview with New Zealand’s Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan
Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
chris marcolini: Did you ever find the falling block?...
Nate: The narc lives on, at least as an archive. Miss th...
J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
