Video Friday videos one day early….
Video Friday – 9/23/2011
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Fred Nicole Still Getting It Done
Fred Nicole reports on a new boulder problem he did in Switzerland that could be V15
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Joe Kinder
After getting a lot of love from first ascensionist Matty Hong and second ascensionist Jonathan Siegrist, it’s only fitting that only a short time after returning to the States from South Africa Joe Kinder was able to repeat Bad Girls Club (5.14d), a route he had bolted in Rifle, CO.
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Dave Graham, who is back in the U.S. after returning from Australia, came close to sending as well. Sendtember rolls on…
PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent
PlanetMountain interviews Arnaud Petit about his ascent of the 5.13d sport route Black Bean on trad gear, touching on his motivations for doing so and whether or not he considered removing the bolts:
No, I never considered this as Black Bean is a great sport route, established by Bruno Clément, really world-class and a true classic. Ceüse is a sport crag, the rock is not really suited to gear placements so there is no reason to remove the bolts. Even had I worked the route not using the bolts but instead by using a static fixed from above, I would not have had this idea. I am 40 now and I don’t want to teach others how the things should be through this types of actions, even if I understand people removing bolts in some crack areas. As I see it, I am very very happy that we can climb this route playing two different games, without controversies.
Well said.
Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) Repeated By Jen Vennon – Updated
Jen Vennon becomes the first woman to climb 5.14b in Rifle, CO with her repeat of Stockboy’s Revenge
AAC Launches New Guidebook Finder Tool
The American Alpine Club launches a new tool to help search their library of climbing guidebooks
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Video Friday – 9/16/2011
One week to the Nor’easter and some Video Friday videos!
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- Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
- chris marcolini: Did you ever find the falling block?...
- Nate: The narc lives on, at least as an archive. Miss th...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
- J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
- Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
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