News…
- Sasha DiGiulian has just about wrapped up her stay in Rodellar, Spain, and her final ticklist is pretty impressive. Some might say world record breaking. In addition to the 5.14c redpoint and the 5.14a onsight she redpointed a pair of 5.14a’s and flashed a 5.13c. In total she did 12 routes 5.13b or harder with almost half going down first try.
- Another American in Rodellar is Ben Spannuth. Clearly motivated by that one time he and I talked shop over a bottle of Buffalo Trace, he too has redpointed Cosi Fan Tutti according to his 8a scorecard. In addition he’s done 6 other 5.14s since he left the States to climb overseas. He could not, however, do the famous DWS Loskot And Two Smoking Barrels which sounds pretty horrifying.
- Dai Koyamada reporst on his blog (in Japanese) and to UKC that he did the FA of Dark Matter, a potential V14 or 15 in the Darkness Cave in Magic Wood, Switzerland. The problem starts on In Search Of Time Lost and exits out From Darkness To Sunshine.
- New route on the Incredible Hulk:
600 feet 19 bolts, 10 days, 6 brushes, 4 partners and 1 route later, here is the long-winded tale of my experience new routing on the Incredible Hulk.
- According to his 8a scorecard Jon Cardwell has repeated Daniel Woods’ Aslan (V14) in RMNP for the problem’s (at least) 7th ascent.
And Notes…
- Also this Saturday is the 1st Annual Meyers Climbing Festival & Bouldering Competition in South Lake Tahoe. More info on that here.
I would also like to say that I have been astounded by the amount of new rock that seems to be cropping up out there in the woods, not only in Wyoming, but Colorado, Idaho and Montana as well. If you want to come up to Lander, by all means, come on up. But don’t think for a minute that there aren’t 20 other areas on the list waiting to be explored. There are thousands of boulders to be climbed out there. I have shared many new areas and problems on this site, with the intention that climbers will enjoy them. But as I often have said in the past, I would encourage boulderers to think outside the box, not follow the trends and get out there and find some adventure for yourself!
I’m not in the know about Lincoln Lake access issues, but this Adopt-a-Crag confuses the heck out of me. After all the discussion of “No, Jamie can’t publish LL in his new guidebook” and “Boo on Andy for publishing a topo in DPM” because people are (rightly) worried about the effect of a bum rush on the sensitive alpine area, how does the Access Fund justify a “COME ONE, COME ALL” event in the area?
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I’ve never been to an access fund (but do donate to SCC) event but I would guess that they do things like trail upkeep, clean up, rebolt/chop, close routes, etc. They (at least down south) don’t hold access events in sacred places so it does not bother me. It’s up to locals to do this on our own. The day I hike 1 hour – 30 minutes in and I see tents with sponsors is the day hell freezes over.
I support Jamie for not publishing info because it will surely lead to issues out there with the rangers cause it seems out in CO that lots of people follow the lead dogs. I like Narc’s post about thinking outside the box. Greatest thing ever is to climb places where no one goes, you don’t have to hear the words beta and psych, and you can find nice 25ft boulders with scary topouts.
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The AF is a great organization that does a ton of awesome things, no question there (I’ve been a member for years).
However,
this event seems opposed to what I had observed as the ‘local ethic’
regarding LL, which I interpreted as: “since we don’t have a solid
climber-ranger agreement, keep it somewhat on the down-low or climbers
will run amok and damage the area.”
Of course I could’ve
misinterpreted. Or maybe someone’s built an actual trail since last time
I was there, or people have gotten better about scrambling down. I just
haven’t heard about any major shifts in how things are being handled up
there.
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The AF is a great organization that does a ton of awesome things, no question there (I’ve been a member for years).
However,
this event seems opposed to what I had observed as the ‘local ethic’
regarding LL, which I interpreted as: “since we don’t have a solid
climber-ranger agreement, keep it somewhat on the down-low or climbers
will run amok and damage the area.”
Of course I could’ve
misinterpreted. Or maybe someone’s built an actual trail since last time
I was there, or people have gotten better about scrambling down. I just
haven’t heard about any major shifts in how things are being handled up
there.
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Those concerns are valid but I think they are really separate from the event happening Saturday, which I’m pretty sure is being done in coordination with the local park service people. I believe they are even helping provide transportation for any trash that is pulled out of LL.
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I laughed my head off when I read you “world record” comment. I saw what you were referring to earlier today…. and I really just don’t get it.
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I just don’t get it either. In a sport that is measured on subjective standards (grades), it’s impossible to keep or set “records”.
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