News & Notes – 08/16/2010

News & Notes – 08/16/2010


  • is reporting that 15-year-old Enzo Oddo has repeated Chris Sharma’s Realization (5.15a) in Ceuse, France.  Other than his age, Oddo’s ascent is notable for the fact that it is the first repeat of the route since key holds broke low in the route, substantially increasing the difficulty of that section.  Check out some pictures of him on the route here.
  • Also in Ceuse (and some other French areas) was another young superstar in 17-year-old Adam Ondra.  He had what at this point amounts to just a ho-hum sort of trip where, according to his scorecard, he did 2 5.14d’s (1 FA), 4 5.14cs and 4 5.14bs (3 of them onsights).  Ok, maybe that’s a pretty good trip even for Adam Ondra.
  • Over in Rodellar, Spain, 17-year-old Sasha DiGiulian did her first 5.14b Welcome To Tijuana according to her scorecard.
  • Back in the U.S., Carlo Traversi did the 3rd ascent of one of Daniel Woods’ proposed V14s at Mt. Evans’ Lincoln Lake.  In registering his repeat of  The Exfoliator on his 8a scorecard Carlo thought V13 might be a more appropriate grade.  B3Bouldering also reports that James Litz repeated The Exfoliator and “it seems that this problem will settle at V13”.
  • Also at Lincoln Lake, Dave Graham did the FA of Clan of the Cave Bears proposing V13 for the new problem according to his 8a scorecard.
  • Ethan Pringle has an excellent recap from his trip to Australia that includes some great pictures from Simon Carter.

…And Notes

  • It looks like the reports from the 2010 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market are finally in, and as expected the new Gri Gri from Petzl got a lot of good press as well as the new line-up of shoes coming from Five Ten.  For a good wrap up of some of the climbing related gear coming soon check these posts from Splitter Choss and
  • Colin Delehanty’s videos from the Red River Gorge have been getting tons of play lately on Vimeo.  If you like Delehanty’s work you can help support his upcoming film project about deep water soloing in Mallora by contributing here.  Here’s one of his RRG videos that focuses on walls in the Gray’s Branch region like Military Wall:

Red River Gorge Climbing: Gray’s Branch from Colin Delehanty on Vimeo.

  • The 2010 UBC Pro Tour‘s final event is coming up at the end of September at the 2010 Nor’easter Festival in Lincoln, NH.  The question for me right now is whether or not I should make the a trip out to New Hampshire to check things out.  Music, a bouldering comp, Rumney, autumn in the Northeast???  Hmmm, very tempting…

The Road to the Nor’easter: Introduction from NE2C on Vimeo.

The Road to the Nor’easter Powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a road trip through the Northeast showcasing the communities and personalities coming together to make the 2010 Nor’easter festival a unique celebration of Music, Sport, and Conservation September 24th-26th at Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH.

This is the first of 5 video installments on The Road to the Nor’easter that we’ll be release on a weekly basis, so stay tuned, and get your tickets now at!

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6 Responses to News & Notes – 08/16/2010

  1. Julian August 16, 2010 at 2:08 pm #

    Re: Nor’easter – if your goal is to enjoy Rumney, you’d be better off avoiding the festival weekend. It can get quite crowded on normal weekends without any help from sponsors. Of course, if your goal is to check out the scene, then that’s the time to do it.

    If you’re headed east, let the internet know and we’ll hook you up with tour guides and such.

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    • Narc August 16, 2010 at 3:16 pm #

      Will do, thanks! I realize it would be pretty crowded but actual climbing would likely be a secondary part of the trip should I actually make it out there.

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  2. Paully August 16, 2010 at 2:14 pm #

    Enzo Oddo is unbelievable. Period. I think he gets somewhat overlooked because Ondra is so ridiculous at all genres of climbing…granted oddo can’t compete in the world cup yet. Where are all the American 15 year olds climbing .15a? Back to the gym I go!

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    • Narc August 16, 2010 at 3:21 pm #

      Where are the 15 year-old American’s climbing 5.14?? The Raboutou kids are certainly holding their own. Although if they spend their summers crushing routes in Europe do we get to count them as Americans or not? These are important questions.

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  3. Paully August 16, 2010 at 3:43 pm #

    Very true. I think the main reason is more psyche on bouldering and comps. And fewer 5.15 routes…

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  4. Aimee August 21, 2010 at 11:59 am #

    Rumney will be crowded, but there are SO MANY other things to do that weekend anyway. the UBC comp, cyclocross race, film festival, over TEN BANDS to see, sponsor village, etc.

    Everyone should come! It’s going to be amazing!!!

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