News & Notes – 08/07/2009

News & Notes – 08/07/2009

News

  • Nalle Hukkataival has added a new V15 called Livin Large at Rocklands, South Africa.  It took Hukkataival 12 days of work to open the amazing looking 25 ft. tall arete.  Read more at the Lenslam blog.
  • Keita Mogaki has flashed his second V13, Klem Loskot’s Black Shadow at Rocklands, South Africa.  Read an interview he did with Stikkit here.
  • Congratulations to Gabor Szekely and Sasha DiGiulian for sending their hardest routes on a recent low gravity day in Rodellar, Spain.  Szekely sent Los Inconformistas (5.14d) and Sasha DiGiulian sent Botanics (5.13d/.14a).  Los Inconformistas was also sent in recent days by Magnus Midtbø and Felipe Camargo.
  • Matt Wilder did the 3rd ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s traditional route The Path (5.14 R) at Lake Louise in Canada.

Notes

And Videos!

Footage of Peter Würth on the first full link of Parts 1, 2 and 3 of The Neverending Story in Magic Wood.  The first 2 parts are a well known V14 first done by Chris Sharma.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5pH474DgJE&w=540]

Women’s highlights from the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb1C20mKZ50&w=540]

Men’s highlights from the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY6IIto55kI&w=540]

Posted In: Bouldering, Mammut Bouldering Championships, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Videos
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12 Responses to News & Notes – 08/07/2009

  1. Paul Campbell August 7, 2009 at 8:37 am #

    Your Alex Johnson blurb links to Carlo Traversi’s blog. 🙂

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    • Narc August 7, 2009 at 8:39 am #

      Ooops. Thanks for pointing that out. It should be fixed now.

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  2. sweatpants August 7, 2009 at 10:12 am #

    That is really a shame about the conditions in China for the competitors. That had to be so hard to climb with your body feeling like that. It should be mentioned though that when they got back to LA they had a bunch of Domino’s pizza… talk about your digestion issues, I have to actually sit on the toilet while eating that stuff it goes thru me so fast. haha

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  3. Eggbert August 7, 2009 at 11:45 am #

    What the hell was that rant about Moosejaw? Just a company trying to make it out there… Who cares. Jeez.

    On another note, yeah, the China comp sounds like it sucked. I was in China about 20 years ago in high school, and it sounds like nothing has changed. We were told not to drink the water, but it didn’t matter. I guess the ‘food’ itself was enough to clean out the intestines. I am always amazed that when we go out for Chinese here in the US it bears essentially no resemblance to what we were eating over there. Beautiful country though, amazing culture and a great place to visit otherwise…

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    • Narc August 7, 2009 at 11:52 am #

      The rant is a bit over the top, but that is par for the course at SA. The funny part is this: when I got home after reading that post Mrs. Narc was leafing through the same catalog and was like WTF, what’s up with this?

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  4. sweatpants August 7, 2009 at 11:57 am #

    That dude’s retarded… what guy complains about a bunch of pretty woman in underwear… its like a victoria secret catalogue only for outdoor gear. BILLIANT!

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    • Narc August 7, 2009 at 12:03 pm #

      I’m not saying I didn’t like it, but I did find it an odd way to sell women’s jackets.

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  5. sweatpants August 7, 2009 at 12:07 pm #

    I am now interested in purchasing a woman’s jacket… and I’d kind of like to purchase one of those knight’s helmets

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  6. peter August 7, 2009 at 3:26 pm #

    rhetoricallytarded? apart from being an oh-so-funny play on the word “retarded” (get it? get it?), it’s rude and offensive. kind of like the advertisements s/he’s whining about in the first place. Also, evidently you get into post-feminist heaven by getting so caught up in your rant you lose the ability to express yourself clearly. S/he is writing for Judith Butler, not Rock Climbers. My recommendation: keep the climbing climbing; and don’t link to that trash in the future.

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  7. Josh August 7, 2009 at 6:31 pm #

    Nothing on Fred Nicole?

    Didn’t he just put up something really hard?

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  8. Eggbert August 7, 2009 at 7:48 pm #

    I will not say that I did not like the catalog. It didn’t make me want to buy anything in particular, however. However, if Sweaty buys a knight’s helmet, I will too. Monkey see monkey do. ce

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  9. sweatpants August 8, 2009 at 2:09 am #

    lol. you’re lucky i give good beta, otherwise you’d be screwed.

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