It’s been awhile since I’ve spent any amount of time at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and even longer since I’ve stayed at the local hangout Miguel’s.
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This past weekend I had the good fortune of spending three days climbing with Kevin and of course hanging out at Miguel’s. The climbing was better than I remembered, but I couldn’t help but notice some very annoying things going on. Obviously some of them have been going on for some time, but like I said I have been out of the game for a bit.
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Here are a few observations:
- If you are going to be arriving at a crowded camping location (Miguel’s) at a late hour, it is most definitely not cool to be using one of those flashlights you have to crank while setting up your tent. One can expect to be woken up by the sound of a tent going up, but not the sound of you being too cheap to buy an actual headlamp. I thought those were only for 3rd graders anyway.
- Music at the crag – This was observed by a friend at The Gallery, and I overheard someone at our crag lamenting the fact that they forgot their speakers and how “sweet” it would be to climb to “some tunes”.
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W-R-O-N-G. If you want to listen to music while you climb, go to the gym. Speaking of gyms… - Toproping directly through the anchors is not OK.
- The RRG is not Devil’s Lake. Attempting eliminates (on toprope no less) on a 70 ft. sport route is a waste of everyone’s time, especially those waiting in line to try said route.
Old School summed it up pretty nicely by pointing out that the Red is turning into “Devil’s Lake South”. For those that have not climbed at the Lake, this is not a good thing.
What else at the crag is annoying people these days?
Some reader suggestions so far:
- Heat
- Dogs
- Insects
- Walls that are too tall for bouldering
- Belaying
- Snakes
- Not being able to listen to music
- People from Illinois
- Guys taking their girlfriends climbing
- Lame girls
Dogs. Dogs at the crag suck. But mostly FIBS.
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heat. heat at the crags annoys me. so too does precipitation. give me dry 40 degree days… maybe 50 for a warm session. also, darkness. darkness is just not cool at the crag. shade is totally fine, but not darkness. eff that in the a.
finally, belaying. belaying is the worst climbing related activity ever. spotting is cool. belaying is the suck. especially when you do not have belaying muscles and you belay all day in the heat, then you are too tired to actually do some REAL climbing on your favorite granite boulders the next day… makes all the warm fuzzy feelings of having ‘volunteered’ and ‘helped out’ fade into a dark ball of festering rage.
i blame sport climbing and trad climbing for suggesting to management that there is an alternative to pads to “protect” boulder problmes. there is no alternative. pads only. forever pads. pads a muerte. chinga les ropes.
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Sock Hands is now friends with insanity.
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Heh heh, sock hands is totally right. Heat sucks.
I haven’t been to the Red in 4 or 5 years, but all of the things described here were prevalent then as well. In general, I think it was “people” that caused us to start trad climbing at the Red.
Last weekend we were down at a pre-designed outdoor-gym-esque area in Colorado Springs called Red Rocks Canyon. The area was quiet and beautiful until about 2pm, when everybody else showed up. There were babies crying, iPods belting out AC/DC tunes, a large group of young guys who seemed to think it was cool to bark (like dogs) loudly at each other, and of course, the ubiquitous “dude taking his girlfriend climbing” who feels the need to yell beta at her as she leads up a creepy, slabby 5.10, nearly crying the whole time.
We were being laid-back, and accepted it for the party atmosphere that it was. For about 2 hours. Then we took off. 🙂
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One day, when I was about 14, my dad, brother and I were climbing at military wall. Some dumb fucks tripping on something were swinging into the tree immediately to the left of possum lips….FOR FUN. This was really stupid. I then went and climbed “Right Turret” and some old guy drinking beer out of a nalgene asked my brother, 11 at the time, if he had “a light.” That second story is just funny, not annoying.
Oh, when I was down at labor day my dad and I darted up to Military wall to squeeze in a few pitches before leaving. As I made my way up reliquary, there was music blasting and dumb asses yelling while their buddy flailed up Gung Ho. I don’t want to claim to be distracted, but I was. This would be somewhat justifiable (they beat us to the crag) if they hadn’t recognized how distracting they were being and shut up and pressed pause on their music as their buddy made a send run on Gung Ho….
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Mosquitoes.
Mosquitoes are THE SUCK at the crag.
Thankfully it is fall! HORRAY!!!
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all insects are THE SUCK…got stung by a wasp AGAIN this past weekend
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Yes…I went to Horseshoe this weekend for the 24HHH but not to compete but to climb for REAL (boulder) and I encountered the same problem with music…I totally agree if you want music go to the gym don’t bring your portable speakers or an iphone…..and damn it don’t use it for video beta thats half of the fun …and for eff’s sake don’t leave you cigarette butts all over the place
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How is the bouldering there? We are thinking of checking it out in a few weeks.
Hmm, using my iphone for video beta…I hadn’t thought of that…yet 🙂
Smoking is weak…
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Really hate old guys at the crag that complain about everything like dogs, eliminates, ect. Man whats with those guys… Oh wait Never mind.
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Agree with most of the stuff my Narcing brotha. However, call me new school or lame but I like listening to music anytime that I climb whether its inside or out. I usually ask the people around me before doing so… it is apparetnly fate that we haven’t sessioned together because you may have strangled me your narc-ness
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See, you are at least attempting to be courteous. If someone likes his or her music that is great for them if they are the only group present, but foisting it on others when they are trying to enjoy the outdoors (by cussing their way up a project) is another thing.
Same goes for dogs. I love dogs however that doesn’t always mean that I am going to love your dog walking on my rope or fighting with that other guy’s dog.
We MUST session soon-ish!
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1. Snakes. Three were sighted within about an hour at the Gallery. I hate snakes.
2. Il-informed people talking about politics at the crag. Heard this weekend at the crag..
Lame Girl#1: “I saw the debate on Friday and thought McCain sounded great. I mean, I am totally for Obama, but I bet he captured some swing voters with that debate.”
Lame Girl#2: (said while Lame Girl#1 climbs) “I know, but look at how old McCain is. His chances of dying in office are pretty good and can you imagine Sarah Palin taking over as President?”
Lame Girl#1: (said while getting lowered) “Wait, has Obama chosen a VP running mate?”
3. I second the music thing. I hate it outside, but for some reason like it inside.
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You guys are missing the point, the most annoying thing about the Red is all that amazing rock and no damn boulders, obviously. Sock hands will back me up on this one.
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…..so many reasons here why i love the nrg.
in my case, my girlfriend takes me climbing.
usually the presence of other people, hiking and nature are enough to light my fire.
gumbys get to me, especially the “what grade is that!!???!!” question.
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The music thing isn’t a problem, so long as your group is the only one there. Asking is courteous, but not as courteous as just turning it off. Most of the time (as in when music is playing that I like) I don’t mind it, per say, but it’s definitely a different environment. I like the birds and the wind and the leaves, though I’d hesitate before telling someone to turn music off.
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all good points, I really don’t like when Craig is climbing anywhere near me. O, and don’t forget about the fibs.
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Yea, RRG has been turning that way for some time I think. It was better when Miguel didnt have that huge gravel parking lot to attract a crowd, people are always worse in mass. I decided to to go other places a few years ago (Jackson) in response to that sort of behaviour. Damn shame the climbing is so good in Kentucky!
Music is so tacky at the crag, what a bunch of yahoos.
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and boom goes the dynamite!!!!!!!!!!1111111
!! merry boulders for all, and for all, a good boulders !!
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OMFG I WAS TYPING A HUGE COMMENT RE: SPORT CLIMBING LOSERS… not climbers who sport climb, but losers who only sport climb and think that they are significantly more awesome than all else… and was inadvertantly erased by some unknown sloppy bump of my outer right palm…. all highlighted and replaced with a period taht i musta typed.
maybe for the best…
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Try CTRL + Z next time?? We all know people who do trad, sport and bouldering reign supreme anyhow…
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@ Peter – You would have enjoyed the time at the Lake a group of people were playing NATURE SOUNDS over their Ipod speakers. That’s right, nature sounds while outdoors. Priceless. I don’t even have to mention what fine state they were from do I?? 🙂
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don’t forget hamocks. they rule at the crag, everyone should have one. I don’t like climbers that use plastic water bottles either, they are bad for you.
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Yeah, I was at the Gallery and heard the same music on Saturday, wonder if we were hanging out with your “observers”. And there were a ton of dogs there (didn’t bother me as much). And a decent sized snake chilling out next to the path near 27 Years of Climbing. Fortunately routes like Goldrush totally make up for all the annoyances.
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Quite possible indeed. If you saw two grown men holding each other in fear of a snake at ground level at the first bolt of a route then you saw my “observers”.
Apparently one of the dogs got bit by a copperhead! Yikes!
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Old school You and me are going to have to fight. I love dogs,fibs,and hammocks. I am, however, one of the most tolerant people in the world. Why can’t we all just get along.
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WHINERS!! i mean people that bitch the problem sucks cuz they cant do it then carry on for 30 minutes about all the hard shit they do in gyms. or how they left the correct shoe at home, or its 5 degrees too hot for that kind of sloper. SHUT UP AND CLIMB!!
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it is ALWAYS five degree too hot for that sloper…. and in my pants.
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I hate constantly hearing about the heat / humidity in soxley’s pants.
That sloper would feel better if you would keep your hands out of such a toxic enviornment.
Oh, and the 12 point anchor to EVERY GODDAMN TREE IN SIGHT for toproping your wicked 5.6
Just saying.
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narc: you forgot to add ‘sport climbers’ and ‘trad climbers’ and ‘anyone but big poppa “sockhands” chosscrush von soxley and his friends’ to the list of annoyances.
i could see how folks out of the inner sanctum would find the inner sanctum objectionable in many situations. however, i also postulate that such people are worth less than little and should be maximumally marginalized whenever possible.
finally, in these potentially dire economic times, has YOUR listening of dead kenedey’s “soup is good food” increased or decreased?
the more work i do at work, the more i sing “at my job” quietly to my tortured self.
what?
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I would have guessed California, but I can’t imagine why hipster yuppies would be climbing at the lake. I also heard rumor that installation of surround sound at the Sanctuary is the next trail-day project at Muir…
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skip the people. boulder in the red. all 4 problems await you.
4 i say. 4.
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Earplugs for sleepin. Never leave home without them. Esp. on a tent trip.
Anywhere else to camp near the RRG besides Miguel’s?
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Yes, several. We usually stay at Whittleton which is a state campground just down the road from Miguel’s. It costs more but it is a bit nicer than Miguel’s and doesn’t suffer from most of the overcrowding problems at Miguel’s. Only downside is dealing with your average car camper types.
Lago Linda’s seems to becoming an en vogue alternative climber hangout as well.
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Cool, thanks. Headed there in a couple weeks.
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1. Dick Strange not having his signature pizza named after him. (much less on the menu)
2. Mandatory first time camper orientation consisting of Miguels gun toting curfew warning from “Red River Ruckus.”
3. Canadians from the Gunks that broker their way into being climbing partners and reveal the fact they refuse to have anything to do with cracks insanely late in the proceedings.
4. <- Someones already mentioned how this number relates to bouldering.
5. The lack of respect shown to Miguel, private property, disposal of human waste, and an obviously pipe friendly environment. See also “Spring Break Destinations” or “REI sold me a beyond organic consciousness the belies my lack of bearing?”
6. More snakes than minx.
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I like the dudes who lead every frickin’ route on the wall so their friends can try and top rope some stuff, but instead the friends sit around eating peanut butter sandwiches and talk about how hard it is to climb outside because they can’t tell where the holds are while they wear ankle socks with their climbing shoes so their shoes won’t stink and take up half the climbs and don’t even share the peanut butter sandwiches. Or the dude who is like yo bro we were going to climb that route right after this one. And I’m like yeah ok well I’m going to climb it right now and when we’re done we can switch. And then he’s like nah dude I mean we’re kind of going to keep climbing this one and that one. And I’m like oh shit you got reservations? And he’s like You want to fight? And I’m like damn…’biner to the face? Maybe I’ll climb this other one. Or the dude who doesn’t know anything about leading but his friend is like Nah it’s 5.9 bro it’s all good then he backsteps the rope and takes a 25 foot whipper upside down with no helmet and smashes his skull and drips blood on me while I’m belaying. Did he say belaying? Ah man this one time I belayed this dude…he climbed like 5.29c. For shiz.
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I think this list needs to be expanded after my recent trip…
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Please expand. ce
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so what was so annoying about Strange not having his fav item on the menu? Did u get to know this guy well?
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Climbers annoy the hell out of me. Very destructive to cliff fauna and flora, and in addition they are just douche bags, in my experience.
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