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Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5
The long wait for the next installment in the Dosage series of climbing movies is almost over. Next week, you will be able to see the movie for the first time (if you live in Boulder) and a wide release has been promised for some time in late June. Ok, great. But what will actually be in the movie?
I have been doing some digging, and I have been able to confirm a few details. Check out this detailed list of what will be in the 'doses' that comprise Dosage 5:
- Beth Rodden on Meltdown (5.14c) trad FA in Yosemite which would be awesome by itself. However, there will also be footage of her climbing on other traditional testpieces like The Phoenix (5.13a), Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Peace (5.13c/d) and Book of Hate (5.13d).
- Daniel Woods on the FA of Jade (V15) in RMNP plus Paul Robinson on the third ascent. Several other double digit RMNP problems from Daniel and Paul as well.
- Chris Sharma trying his two possible 5.
15b projects in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain. - Dani Andrada on his 5.15 route/boulder Ali-Hulk Sentado in Rodellar, Spain.
- Daila Ojeda on 2 5.14s in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 2 5.14cs in Santa Linya and Margalef, Spain.
- Randy Puro and Tommy Caldwell on new boulders in Yosemite, including the 1st and 2nd ascents of Dogwood (V12), FA of Yabo Roof (V12), FA of Xenophile (V11), 2nd ascent of Tim Clifford's Park Life (V12) as well as ascents of Drive On (V11) and Kumba (V11).
- Footage from Yangshuo, China featuring Mike Fuselier and Axel Ballay.
FA of American Gangster (5.14b) and 2 other 5.14 FAs - Dave Graham, Ty Landman, Jon Cardwell, Jason Kehl and Chad Greedy in Arkansas. Lost in The Hood (V14) FA, Wood Grain Grippin (V14) FA, many more FAs in the V12-V13 range.
- Jason Kehl and Chris Lindner bouldering in Albarracin, Spain
- "Secrets of the The East" - the unknown gems of New England with Paul Robinson, Matt Bosley and more - FAs of several V10-V14 problems around NY, CT, and MA.
Overall, this installment in the Dosage series looks like it will continue the tradition of being even better (the first 4 were pretty awesome!) than the previous installments. If you are going to be seeing it at the premier next Wednesday in Boulder, be sure to drop me a line and let me know how it goes.
Stay tuned to Climbingnarc.com for more details!
9 comments
Looks like it is going to be the best line up so far. Super stoked for the
Spain stuff.
Yeah, they have had international flavors in all the previous 4 movies (mainly with US climbers) so it will be cool to see climbers like Andrada and Usobiaga as well as the different areas that will undoubtedly leave us feeling inferior with our rock here.
yo narc, check this out. I hope it isn't true...
http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/03/dont-forget-to-pack-your-ethics.html
Yes, I had seen that awhile back. I have been in touch with the guys at Big Up about it to find out their side of things as I too found James's post rather disturbing. I also found it hard to believe that Big Up would condone that sort of behavior.
I'm not going to say anything specific about my conversations with Big Up at this time, however I would caution you to remember that there are two sides to every story. I will say that based on my discussions with them it isn't as bad as James makes it out to be, at least as far as Big Up's involvement in what happened.
More to come on this though...
So psyched to see the D5 whenever I can. Sounds like it'll be pretty kick-ass.
Too bad about American Gangster being chipped, whatever actually happened. James does have a point though, about there not being very many 5.14s in the world with, especially 14b or harder, with no manufacturing, or at least no chipped holds. It would be interesting to make a list of all the 14s out there with no chipped holds, pin scars or glue. I guess it depends on your definition of "Natural".
Also, I think Ty got the 2nd on Jade, and Paul got the 3rd?
Thanks, I corrected the Jade info.
That is interesting on the chipped route front and something that most people don't even know about. It is strange that chipping is still an apparently accepted practice for some...
I saw something, I can't remember where, that featured Patxi Usobiaga talking about how chipping is ok and it is acceptable to make the routes feel better. He said that comfortizing holds would make routes more popular. An interesting example he used was a few of the early holds on biography had been modified...
Does anyone know where i can find the music from Dosage 5?
You can find some of the songs on the Dosage Compilation soundtrack.