My Climbing Shoe Collection

Lately I have been accused by many of owning too many pairs of climbing shoes. One might even think that I am sponsored by Five Ten based on my endless promotion of their shoes, but they would be wrong.
Assortment of Five Ten Shoes

While perhaps not necessary, each shoe does actually have a specific use:

Montrail Shoes – Received for free, still evaluating the effectiveness of a shoe that you are supposed to put in your oven before using. Good for wearing out at the gym instead of one of my more cherished shoes.
Anasazi Mesa – After cursing the mistaken arrival of these shoes (instead of the classic pink lace-ups) I now use these as my preferred shoe for the small and slippery footholds at Devil’s Lake
New V10s – Awesome bouldering shoe, not bad for sport either
Dragons – Still breaking them in but obviously quite good for the steep stuff
Mocasyms – Good for pretty much anything you could ever want to climb and quite a bit more comfortable than my other shoes
Old V10s – A bit worn down but still great for bouldering at the gym
Anasazi Velcro (not pictured) – In a moment of philanthropy earlier this year I donated my pair of these to a young pupil of mine. I really need to get a new pair!

Take a second to take the below poll and let me know how many pairs of shoes you currently own. Based on the results so far, I am not in the minority in having over 5 pairs of shoes. Also, take a minute to comment below what is currently in your collection.

[poll id=”2″]

Posted In: From The Narc, Off the Board
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15 Responses to My Climbing Shoe Collection

  1. Tony November 13, 2007 at 7:26 am #

    Well, I have several pairs of completely blown out shoes, but only one pair I climb in…Semi-blown out Miuras

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  2. Luke November 13, 2007 at 11:06 am #

    What about more than 10 pairs?

    I think it is interesting how polarized people can be with the brands. While the shape of one brand can make a big difference in how it fits your foot I feel people tend to stick with just one company out of loyalty or something else.

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  3. Climbing Narcissist November 13, 2007 at 11:23 am #

    Yeah, I guess I could have added more options. How many shoes do you have Luke, what kinds?

    I agree that people tend to stick with one brand even though the advantages sometimes seem more mental than anything else. I know that I initially went with 5.10 because of the fit compared with La Sportiva and I haven’t really tried on any other brand since then.

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  4. Luke November 13, 2007 at 12:59 pm #

    My first climbing shoes were from a garage sale and the next pair was from a friend. From there I went 5.10 and they wore out really fast. Then I went through about 4 pairs of cobras which I still love, it was cheaper to get a new pair than to get a resole. I went back to five ten with the Anasazai Velcro. Next I “discovered” the Muria and have been really happy with those shoes. I want to get a pair of the new dragons since all the cool kids are wearing them ๐Ÿ˜‰ The old version of the dragon and the V10 just don’t fit my feet, so sad.

    I am looking forward to the release of the new pink shoe with the improved heel. I haven’t seen any info about it on the five ten site but I have seen pictures and videos with five ten athletes wearing them.

    I keep pondering the Pontas since they have been really popular but I cant find them cheap enough. The new Scarpa line also looks quite promising. If you can climb V16 and E11 in them it has to mean something right?

    I have too many shoes to count but it has been fun to try so many styles. I am working to figure out how the new brands stack up against the “originals”.

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  5. big poppa chosscrush November 13, 2007 at 2:36 pm #

    about 7 pairs of brand new, never been worn shoes including a pair of scarpa tifosis, sportiva MANTRA S x2 ***!!!! [raging jealousy is normal here], cobras, muiras, and assorted others.

    about 8 pairs in the current use rotation…. all italian made cause five tens are just about the worst shoe for my foot shape i’ve ever tried ever [and i’ve donated various models]

    about 12 pairs used and in boxes or atop my basement wall… many have been resoled, or need to be, but are usable… can’t wait to show up at some domestic deep water soloing joint w/ a huge hockey bag and using dry shoes for ever effort for an entire weekend !!! muhahahahahahaaa

    about 6 pairs donated to various fools over the years.

    all your records are belong to me.

    sad thing is i have only ever been sponsored under the table, which means i bought most for retail or at some pro-deal hookup price, etc.

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  6. big poppa chosscrush November 13, 2007 at 2:40 pm #

    at the cost of getting in trouble from current good will:

    best all around performance shoes currently in existance: scarpa tifosi. sportiva muira is still a close second for bouldering, sport, etc… just that the thinner profile heel of the tifosi works a tad better for heel hook perching on thin edges.

    best velcro shoe currently in existance: sportiva solution.

    best slipper in existance: scarpa stix.

    anything less would be uncivilized.

    i’ve tried all the other brands. they all are teh suck.

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  7. big poppa chosscrush November 13, 2007 at 2:44 pm #

    finally: a note: i started paying retail for my own shoes again [sportiva, at the time] despite having a hook up with evolv. think about it.

    i also did this with organic pads, despite a franklin hook up at the time.

    these were both great decisions and i consider it money well invested.

    wise up to quality…

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  8. Climbing Narcissist November 13, 2007 at 2:47 pm #

    BPC – unfortunately my significant other does not allow for the storage of manky smelling old shoes, they either need to be shown to be in the rotation or they must be removed from the premises…

    If you own that many sportiva shoes does that mean that you essentially own like 2 of their sponsored athletes…more?

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  9. Climbing Narcissist November 13, 2007 at 3:05 pm #

    Maybe I should wise up to a law degree… ๐Ÿ™‚ but I see your point…I really need to wisen up to an organic pad if we are to move to the frontrange

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  10. jemerson November 13, 2007 at 3:35 pm #

    are you really gonna make the move? if you are I would love to give you some advice from one midwesterner to another on the realities of life

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  11. da BPC bustin' truth nuggets, bishface ! November 13, 2007 at 4:30 pm #

    mad props to jemerson for not engaging in brand spray battle !!! my troops were permitted passage like the facist invasion of france !!!

    oh, and the narc: i own ALL sponsored atheletes. no one will fess up to this because it embarasses them. tant pis, les foolvisage le bishes !!!

    march march march

    muhahahahahahahahahaahahahaaa

    oh, wait… work….

    dang

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  12. Climbing Narcissist November 13, 2007 at 4:38 pm #

    I’ll send you an email JE. I would be interested to hear how many pairs of shoes you have though. No “brand spray battle” needed…just curious.

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  13. chuffer November 14, 2007 at 3:20 am #

    no brand prefered but in the rotation: 1 pair of old school anasazis; 2 pairs of anasazi velcros that are on their 4th stealth soles and still goin’ strong; 2 pairs of Evolve’s Khaos (discontinued in favor of Sharma’s Pontas line) on their 3rd resole with stealth; 1 pair of Testarrosas which in spite of their insane downturned toe work well on face climbing on the smallest of slippery footholds.

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  14. james November 14, 2007 at 10:34 am #

    mad rock flashes
    la sportiva women’s katanas
    5.10 moccasyms
    la sportiva cobras

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