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With the warm up out of the way, Adam Ondra turns his attentions to more long term challenges on his current road trip to Spain. News also from Daila Ojeda…
Has it really been almost 2 months since we last did this??? Hopefully this massive round-up of News & Notes will get me back in your good graces…
News & Notes from Chris Sharma, Daila Ojeda, Chris Webb Parsons, Hueco Rock Rodeo Results and much more…
Chris Sharma is up to his usual tricks in Yangshuo, China
Big Up Productions is hard at work in Spain filming their next movie Progression. As usual, Chris Sharma is one of their main subjects, but we will be treated to more of a European flavor as well. Adam Ondra and Daila Ojeda, both of whom made brief appearances in Dosage V, are also going to be featured. In their latest blog entry, Big Up has the inside scoop on some of the lines they have been filming.
When Nate called me last weekend to let me know he saw Chris Sharma down at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, I knew it wouldn’t be long before the news of hard sends started to trickle out.
There have been hints dropped here and there as to what will be on the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD, but never a definitive list. Until now that is. Check out this list of what Doses will be comprising the next highly anticipated release from Big Up Productions.
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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