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Honnold & Caldwell Pull Off “Mother Of All Traverses” In Patagonia

Rolando Garibotti, reporting in a post on SuperTopo:

Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed “Fitz Traverse”, climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.

This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l’S.

In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.

Not bad for Honnold’s first visit to Patagonia.

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Ueli Steck Interview By Hervè Barmasse

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Ueli Steck – Annapurna South Face

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Ueli Steck And Annapurna

PlanetMountain once again with the news making interview, this time with Ueli Steck after his incredible solo of the South Face of Annapurna:

Everything calmed down. Just like I’d already noticed at ABC the previous evening. And it was like that again. It quickly became dark and quiet. This was my chance. I was sure the winds would pick up again in the morning. So the only way to reach the summit was at night.

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The Disposable Man

Interesting piece on Outside Online about the plight of Sherpas working in the Everest region:

A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is nearly ten times more likely to die than a commercial fisherman—the profession the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention rates as the most dangerous nonmilitary job in the U.S.—and more than three and a half times as likely to perish than an infantryman during the first four years of the Iraq war.  But as a workplace safety statistic, 1.2 percent mortality is outrageous. There’s no other service industry in the world that so frequently kills and maims its workers for the benefit of paying clients.

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Context On Nanga Parbat Massacre

Steve Swenson gives some fascinating context surrounding the massacre at Nanga Parbat’s basecamp the other weekend:

I’ve been on eleven climbing expeditions to Pakistan.  Although the Country has been destabilized by the war in neighboring Afghanistan, sectarian violence, and a growing insurgency, I have always told my family and friends that the areas where we go climbing are safe.  The Karakoram and Himalayan mountains in northeastern Pakistan are stunningly beautiful, and contain a significant number of the world’s greatest mountains including K2, the world’s second highest.  They attract mountaineers and trekkers from all over the world, and.were a safe haven from the terrorist violence that has afflicted other parts of Pakistan.  All that changed on June 22nd, when Pakistani militants killed ten mountain climbers at the Nanga Parbat base camp.  I will try to summarize the events that led to these killings and how this might affect mountaineering and trekking groups in the future.

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The Road From Karakol

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