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Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day. Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

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Sparkshop 2014 Reel

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Hoya Moros 2014

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First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa

DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners:

On my fourth trip [to South Africa], I was told vaguely about some boulders in the middle Cederberg and wanted to go see what I could find.  I drove out there with the “Chasing Winter” crew (Carlo Traversi, Ashima Shiraishi) and we spent a few days hiking and exploring the zone. I didn’t really have the eye then to see the potential that I did this past trip. I am so glad I gave the area another chance because in 2012 when I went, I wasn’t able to see the massive potential of the area.

The potential he found included the problem pictured below called In the Depths of Solitude which could be as hard as V15.  In addition, Robinson opened a slew of other double digit problem including three V13s and a good number of more moderate problems as well.

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Destination Fontainebleau

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The Bloc Shop’s Grand Opening Bouldering Competition Highlights

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Nils Favre – Scarred For Live (V14) – Second Ascent

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