The extended Memorial Day weekend will be here in short order and for many climbers the 3-day weekend affords us the opportunity to hit the road to our favorite climbing destination. One area sure to be inundated with climbers over the holiday weekend will be Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, an area that is, frankly, in danger of being “loved” to death. Previous years have seen areas closed, continued access issues at the areas that remain open and a marked increase in accidents.
The latest access issue to come up is at the extremely popular crag known as Roadside. Home to probably the highest concentration of “easy” sport routes at the Red along with a host of classic 5.12s all minutes from…wait for it…the road, Roadside is a favorite for many climbers myself included.
It’s also on private property and has been since 2004.
Based on a handful of complaints from the owners that include unauthorized route development, unauthorized installation of permadraws and general problems related to overcrowding Roadside has been closed until further notice.
The loss of this popular area right before (probably) the busiest weekend of the year will mean more crowds elsewhere, most likely at the already busy (and also privately owned) Muir Valley. Last weekend the owners of Muir Valley estimate they saw over 700 visitors to their property and expect even more this weekend. Since a lot of my readers climb at the Red I thought I’d share this post from Muir Valley owner Rick Weber laying out some of their concerns for the coming weekend (emphasis mine):
Memorial Day weekend has always been our busiest weekend of the year at Muir. This year we are already seeing a record number of visitors. We have concerns about being able to accommodate crowds expected this weekend.
As many of you know, last weekend the water system for the restrooms at Muir broke down. We are currently working on a major fix that involves running a new water line up the road and connecting with municipal water. This will block a portion of the parking lot and access to our driveway (in which we had 52 cars – of a total of 111 – parked last Saturday) Although we hope to have the work done by this next weekend (Memorial Day) there are no promises. (Weather!)
Combine the record crowds, the excavation work, and the recently-announced closure of Roadside (Graining Fork Nature Preserve), and you can appreciate our concern about the weekend.
When we can no longer accommodate cars, we will have no other choice but to close Muir to additional visitors for the day. So plan to arrive early if you wish to climb here. And consider car pooling. And of course, follow Mom’s instructions to “go before you leave home” in case we weren’t able to finish the restrooms.
When we have to put the sign up saying “Muir is Full for the day”, please respect that sign. Do not park along the county road or on our neighbors’ property. Climb elsewhere and come back another day.
So, if you’re heading down this weekend or any time in the near future keep this information in mind when making your plans. Remember to be flexible, be patient and if parking lots anywhere are full maybe you should consider finding somewhere else to climb.
While these specific situations only impact climbers at the Red, I’m guessing similar situations are playing out around the country. While you’re out climbing this holiday weekend take a moment to think about how you can minimize your impact on the areas in which you are climbing.
Thanks for spreading the word, and encouraging climbers everywhere to be proactive and access-minded!
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What % of people that climb at Roadside even realize it’s private property? 10? Not that who owns the land should change the way it’s treated.
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I think that percent is going to be determined, in large part, by the year in which people started climbing in the red. I’ve been climbing in the red since 2000 (hardly “old-school”) but I would say that those with whom I climbed from 2000-2005 and I all know that Roadside is on private property.
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Of course, what that really means, is that those of us who do know that Roadside is on private property have done a poor job of letting others know as well. Also: whether it is or is not on private property should not dictate the care with which we use the land.
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I didn’t.
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Unfortunately I can only see this trend continuing in the near future. The Red’s amazingly fun combination of gym-like climbing, super-easy access (it’s called Roadside for a reason), and bolts mean its guaranteed to be super-popular, and amazing concentrations of good moderate climbing like 5.10 wall mean everyone ends up in the same place to uncomfortable levels.
The fact is that with increasing media exposure and the proliferation of gyms, climbing is more popular than it has ever been, and that situation is unlikely to change anytime soon. The time when climbing was a very niche activity practiced by only a handful of social misfits is gone, probably forever (though that isn’t necessarily bad). Places like the Red are feeling the pressure more than others, and let’s face it, that’s because the Red is awesome. The current situation is clearly unsustainable, and I get the sense that there are two logical outcomes, both of which mean the death of the current free-for-all that exists there.
The first option is that we gradually watch the main areas of the Red slowly close as the crowds (not just other people, each of us who has gone there has contributed to erosion, etc.), as Torrent and Roadside now have. Frankly, Muir Valley is getting very close to that point, and we owe the Webers huge gratitude as a community for keeping the place open and maintained as long as they have.
The second option is, unfortunately, a quota system not unlike the one at other popular climbing venues like Hueco Tanks, or Mt. Whitney, or some kind of user fee for most areas. These would be understandably maligned by much of the community and with the exception of Muir Valley, hard to enforce. I certainly love the fact that climbing at the Red is free and can be done on a whim. On the other hand, I’m not sure how this is going to be avoidable in the long term unless climbers begin self-policing and volunteering for maintenance of areas on an unprecedented level.
Let’s hope this closure, which may not be permanent, serves as a wake up call to the climbing community that access is not guaranteed even at areas where climbing has occurred for decades. Climbing on someone else’s land is a privilege, not a right, and it will do us all good to remember that.
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Very well said. The current situation is definitely unsustainable. Hopefully the community can figure out a solution.
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I think you’re right that people often don’t know who’s land they’re on; however, in reality it does affect how we can treat it. Of course we should always be good environmental stewards, but it is important to know what is “off-limits” as far as what we can do out there.
For all intents and purposes, a permadraw isn’t going to impact the environment more than just a bolt and hanger, but it does suddenly create more opportunities for gear failure and the land-owners to be held personally liable. And while screaming at a crux may potentially startle some nesting birds or annoy neighboring climbers, it may also offend non-climbers paying $$ to visit the land (partial reason for Torrent Falls closure).
The folks at Muir Valley do the best job they can to encourage us to leave no trace by providing toilets and posting signs explaining WHY not to pee under overhangs, so because of that even the best-intentioned deviant poo or pee can be held accountable and poses risk for land closure. Personally, I think if done properly (like I’m going to hike out and back for nature’s unexpected call), the fertile environment down there will take care of my business rather quickly; but that is not the point.
The point is that each area has distinct rules – whether we agree or not – and like Cadaverchris says, we must be “proactive and access-minded.” Because there is such a high density of climbers and routes at the Red with so many non-locals, I think the group ethic seems to be drifting towards a sense of universal exemption from anything that impedes “climber’s rights.” We must be proactive in knowing the rules and access-minded in following them.
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Does the closing affect the Zoo as well? I’m not too familiar with the different ownerships at the RRG.
Also– do we have any idea how long the closure is expected to last?
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The Zoo is on National Forest land, so it should remain open. As for how long this closure lasts, I have no idea.
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The Zoo is on National Forest land, so it should remain open. As for how long this closure lasts, I have no idea.
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It’s sort of unclear actually. The Zoo itself isn’t part of the closure but the parking lot it shares with Roadside is part of the area that is being closed. So I guess it depends on if the closure if just at the cliff of Roadside or the entire Graining Fork Nature Preserve.
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It’s sort of unclear actually. The Zoo itself isn’t part of the closure but the parking lot it shares with Roadside is part of the area that is being closed. So I guess it depends on if the closure if just at the cliff of Roadside or the entire Graining Fork Nature Preserve.
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Thanks for the heads up Narc.
Its really sad that this area got shut down, and over such easily avoidable disrespect to the owners wishes.
After seeing a comment on RRC.com saying “Loved to death”, it makes me think about how its pretty much the opposite, “Disrespected to death”. On private property, we merely have the privilege, not the right, to climb. There are many, many negatives for land owners in opening up an area for climbing, so when they do open an area (out of what usually amounts to generosity), we should do all that is within our power to respect and honor their wishes. Its really not that hard.
-Zach
http://wahreroftheworlds.blogspot.com
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Thanks for the heads up Narc.
Its really sad that this area got shut down, and over such easily avoidable disrespect to the owners wishes.
After seeing a comment on RRC.com saying “Loved to death”, it makes me think about how its pretty much the opposite, “Disrespected to death”. On private property, we merely have the privilege, not the right, to climb. There are many, many negatives for land owners in opening up an area for climbing, so when they do open an area (out of what usually amounts to generosity), we should do all that is within our power to respect and honor their wishes. Its really not that hard.
-Zach
http://wahreroftheworlds.blogspot.com
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Make everyone lead on gear. There, overuse problem solved!
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Perhaps, perhaps not. Roadside Attraction is certainly one of the routes at Roadside that is getting “loved to death”.
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I love reading these well thought out access minded thoughts here (and the majority of this site in general!)
I’m just thinking out loud here (typing out loud?) and this probably would have to many flaws or loop holes, nor would it necessarily be ideal but, what about a system where the private owners offer access to climbers who have put in “x” amount of hours working and maintaining the area? Sure it would be inconvenient but a system of paying it forward and handing the owner a voucher or proof or participation for you to be allowed to climb would be a lot better than having to pay or having access denied entirely. This in turn could help regulate the numbers and also aid to the land being maintained properly. I’d love to hear others’ opinions. Too many loop-holes? Too inconvenient? Too simplistic?
Thanks for keeping us posted as usual Narc, much appreciated!
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Not a bad idea, but rather inconvenient as you point out.
This is probably a good subject for a future post, but the fact that Torrent and now Roadside are having access problems is not a great sign. Both are owned by climbers and therefore presumably “friendly” to climbers, however both landowners have become fed up enough with climbers to restrict access. The owner of Torrent, Dr. Bob, has made it clear several times that he feels like any additional work on his part to get climbers to behave better is work he doesn’t feel he should have to do and you can’t really blame him.
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This type of volunteering is required at many “long distance” trail running races. You have to give back, aka do trail work, before you are allowed to come race, even after you pay for the race…
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