Anytime there is an up and coming climber from the midwest, you KNOW I am going to pimp them hard.
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Brad Weaver is a climber from Bloomington, IL that had a great 2008. I’m hesitant to give him too much props because he is from Illinois, but in this case I’ll make an exception since he climbs way harder than I ever will.
Most notable among his 2008 ascents were his repeat of Fifty Words For Pump Right (5.14c) and his 2nd ascent of Joe Kinder’s Southern Smoke (5.14c), both at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Here is some video from Spencer Victory of Weaver’s send of Fifty Words (in the summer no less!):
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBObvssWNWk]
After the route climbing season ended at the Red, Weaver moved on to the boulderfields of the south where he has quickly sent problems up to V12. Soon he will be heading out west to climb in Utah for the next 6 months.
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You can follow along with his trip on his recently started blog.
Thats a great peace of climbing, and for once… strangely… I’m not bothered by music in the clip (because you can still hear the ambient noise and the effort he’s putting in) and I’m not bothered by the rap music, but that’s just inexplicable.
Great posts lately Narc.
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I found the music to be a touch on the obnoxious side, but I appreciated being able to hear the effort going into the send.
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Hey man, thanks for using my photo’s in your write up. i really dig the site
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OMG NARC, THE MUSIC THOUGHT *YOU* WERE A TOUCH ON THE OBNOXIOUS SIDE !!! ARRRR !!!
climbing deficiency pms going on like woah around here.
note: i actually stopped to think to myself: wow, route climbing at the red looks KILLER!
snowballs piling up in hell. crazy.
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i really meant to say the narc’s FACE, but i dabbed on the rage
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snowballs? weird. my garage is sooooooo sick right now. feet upon feet of hard/soft v7’s. feet i say!
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every time i think that i’ve set and sent something sikk hard in my basement, i go outside and realize that it was really like v3, even though the holds and steepness of those basement lines look like v11 outside. rhe ball of confusion grows no moss… or whatever
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Not to bring mothers into this but… directed at ________ (your name there)
YOUR *MOM* IS A TOUCH ON THE OBNOXIOUS SIDE!!!
Oh snap!!
Wow… I’m actually really ashamed of myself right now.
On topic, videos like this make me actually interested in route climbing where as, I just get so fed up when I actually do it. Sockhands… I feel the shock this video brought on… stay strong my brother.
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If only all the climbs at the Red were as fun as this one looks. In my experience, the harder a route at the Red the more fun and interesting it is.
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so get stronger, narc.
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i didn’t do tons when i was there the one time, my first road trip, in 2000… but, i thought fuzzy undercling was pretty cool. creature feature as well. twinkie looked great, but i didn’t have the time for it… friends psyched for other stuff…
there’s great lines at every grade, fool!
also, something called infectious seemed really cool but none of us could smell the crux at the time, but then again, v4- was hard then as well.
remember narc, the 5.10 steep jug hauls are always the most popular climbs in the gym. why is that? because steep jug pulling with no distinguishable crux is not boring, it is the climbing of gods.
live this plan.
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Infectious is so good. It is somewhat atypical in that it is only 40 feet long and features a hard bouldering crux as opposed to endless pulling.
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it’s all scary. climbing pumped 5 feet over a bolt is like driving 100 mph at gunpoint. pure horror.
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Climbing pumped 5 feet below a clipped bolt is terrifying to me…
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5.12’s for you:
7a+
Wild Yet Tasty
Gung Ho
Techulius
Hippocrite
Nicorette
Avalanche Run
Wild Fire
7b
buff the wood
sex farm
infectious
jersey connection
tic tac toe
strevels gets in shape
soul ram
rocket dog
reliquary
tissue tiger
7b+
wild gift
stain
the reacharound
blood bath
where’s the beef
7c
tuskan raider
shanghai
racer x
reticent
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Don’t forget:
7a+
Too Many Puppies
Check Your Grip
The Gift
7b
Mercy The Huff
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Sure, but which 12’s are the shortest and softest? Inquiring minds need to plan my next trip’s tick list.
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Start with Wild, Yet Tasty and go from there
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Sweet! Think about coming with and giving me in-person beta. If it looks like it’s going to be nasty weather in Kentucky that weekend a couple of us might head to the comp at Prairie Walls and get schooled by the kids instead. Only a couple more years and I get to compete in the geriatric (“experienced”) category, haha!
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I am always available for move by move beta by telephone
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I only posted about short twelves. check dates on FA’s: more recent = softer.
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