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Am I right in thinking that we’re not seeing many young guys bouldering this hard? Obviously there are a few big names, but the surge of kids killing it the last few months seemed to focus around sport. Am I off base here? (And I’m assuming he’s young based on looks alone, which obviously isn’t objective)
I think you’re right. I think the amount of power needed for these hard boulders is unusual for young kids. I don’t know how old he is. I’d guess 17? But he’s definitely done multiple 13’s. It will be interesting to see how he progresses in the future. Also, I always see updates on climbing.com when kids do hard sport routes, but shit, isn’t this just as newsworthy?
He’s 18, according to his 8a.nu card. For comparison, Daniel Woods was about 15 when he did his first V13. Paul Robinson was 17, Dave Graham around 18 I think, Ondra 15 (no, I don’t have anything better to do than look this stuff up).
I think it’s for sure more unusual to see really young kids bouldering hard than climbing hard routes. It just takes longer to develop that power and finger strength than it does to develop technique and endurance. Anyone who’s really dedicated time to systematic training for climbing knows that. Being able to boulder hard in a variety of styles is probably one of the best predictors for future climbing success.
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