Dani Andrada: La Obsesión

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[vimeo http://vimeo.com/36642899 w=980&h=551]

| Video Source | ClimbingNarc Video Page

"When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again!

If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-)

Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.

Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..."

- Haroun Souirji



Music licensed from WithEtiquette.com and MelloMusicGroup.com



PS: the video was shot and edited in a very wide cinema aspect ratio. This is a test to see how well it could fit climbing. I couldn't stress enough that it looks best on a real TV so if you have a nice, big flat screen at home, download the movie (link on the right) and watch it there!


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For the filmmakers out there. Equipment used:
Cameras // Canon 7D, 60D, 550D
Lenses // Canon TS-E 24mm L, Canon Fish Eye 8-15 L, Canon 24-105 L, Canon 50mm 1.4, Tokina 11-16 2.8, Sigma 30mm 1.4, Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro, maybe forgot one
Stabilization and more // Glidecam HD-2000 steadycam, RedRockMicro DSLR shoulder rig, Kessler Philip Bloom Pocket Dolly
Audio // Zoom H4N field recorder, Rode shotgun mic, Mitra 3D Mic Pro, Sennheiser EW 100-ENG G2 wireless kit
Equipment for future videos will be detailed in posts on my website! (when it's done...)

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10 Responses to Dani Andrada: La Obsesión

  1. Neil February 13, 2012 at 8:01 pm #

    Mad beta spray.

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    • Paul February 14, 2012 at 12:04 am #

      What?

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  2. Joshjanes February 14, 2012 at 10:05 am #

    Andrada’s “litter is much worse than chipping” attitude is fukt.  

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    • Davidsahalie February 15, 2012 at 7:30 am #

      why? some elements of climbers may be opposed to chipping, but litter is worse from the public perspective.

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      • Chris February 15, 2012 at 11:59 am #

        Litter can be cleaned up. Holds can’t be unchipped.

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        • Bert February 15, 2012 at 7:36 pm #

          I see your point, but you can’t unkill a dolphin that becomes entangled and dies due to ocean litter.  This may not exactly relate to your local crag, but there ARE litter related effects that are irreversible for a wide range of ecological functions.

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        • Rjtrials February 16, 2012 at 7:25 am #

          Litter can cause sectors or entire crags to be closed to all future climbing.  chipping is just mildly frustrating, and only if you are on the specific climb, and only if u chose to use those holds.

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        • TheDanDan February 16, 2012 at 9:17 am #

          Crag closures are still reversible. Maybe you won’t get to climb there, but if people can get their act together, perhaps your grandchildren could.

          For people who get their inspiration from climbing on the unique, natural arrangements of holds and features provided by natural geologic processes, chipping can be massively depressing and demotivating. Just because you only find it ‘mildly frustrating’ doesn’t mean everyone else feels the same way. I really don’t like to see physical evidence of the cowardice and lack of vision that leads people to chip. 

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        • chris February 16, 2012 at 11:36 am #

          I’m not trying to downplay the importance of keeping crags clean. I expect people to use them without littering or defiling the stone.

          But there is a big difference between the guy that leaves a clif bar wrapper behind and the guy that drills a new pocket or two.

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    • Stephen Palermo February 16, 2012 at 3:49 pm #

      I don’t litter being worse then chipping or visa-versa, but more as entirely separate issues. I think their both bad, but Andrada has chosen to focus his efforts on the cleanliness of a crag rather then the quality of its routes. In the US where “natural routes” are more the norm, its easy to not see his point, but in Spain where because of the massive influx of international climbers, world class areas like Margalef are in danger of being shut down or limited due to litter, so naturally chipping would be less of a concern. 

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