yep, no new bouldering going on in Utah, everyone to CO! (including all the ‘radoan’s at Joe’s, we no longer need you over-hyping that choss heap)
This is way interesting. Hats off to the guy or gal doing the technical production. Cool green-screen and editing. I look forward to more of these.
For those interested, DG and CG come up at the 1:45 mark. I would, however, seriously recommend the first 45 minutes as Chris Warner is one charismatic dude talking about extreme alpine climbing.
Ok as an brit ex pat living in the US I think I feel the need to leave a comment about Daves franco/europhilia. A certain group of americans I feel are very negative about their country, and hold europe up as a paragon. For example Dave is saying how sad it is that many ppl are favoring the gym to cleaning new routes at estes park, but how in france climbers would be all over it and it would be a honeypot attraction.
Well, he’s right that euro climbers would be all over unclimbed lines like a rash. But this is cos there arent many (/any) left over there! The wonderful thing about the states is that are amazing unclimbed roadside boulders! Thats what I love about it anyway. And there is no equivalent to the US national forest, in england anyway. The amount of freedom you have in a USNF is outrageous, as evidenced by graham and co talking about tree pruning/cutting. Dave is saying how little freedom they have, I think the opposite.
One curious thing is how america is more formal than europe in some ways (“Would you like a map, sir?”) but totally informal in other ways (e.g. silicon valley entrepreneurs).
Dave also says it is important that we make some kind of union, like john sherman suggested. YES. But isnt that the access fund? I guess that their focus is on sport and trad areas and not so much looking out for the little bouldering areas but still.. maybe boulderers need to get more involved in AF (http://www.accessfund.org).
Ethics are always going to vary between areas – bolting a crack in a sport area is sometimes ok, but doing the same in yosemite would get you murdered. Dave seems a little frustrated with this inconsistency, but doesnt it reflect the history of the area?
Awesome! Its funny how they try to transition from hardcore alpinists to pebble wrestlers. After listening to kelly and chris tell their stories, the boulderers seem pretty silly.
I wonder what this show would have been like if Dave had succeeded on Paint it Black and had some dinner. Maybe he wouldn’t have just bi%*ed & moaned the whole time about how much of a “rough” life he has and how horrible the bouldering scene is he’s a part of. Are there issues? Yeah there are, and we do need to talk about them but just his attitude was completely ungrateful for the freedoms we do have and the opportunities he more than most is taking advantage of. It really was a pretty stark difference between how the show started with Chris Warner and ended with self righteous cry babies.
(I can’t believe I just bashed Dave G. I’m a huge fan of his writing, videos, and often his perspective as well as his contributions to the climbing community in the areas he’s opened. This was just a sad day for him I guess.)
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