Cerro Torre By Fair Means

9 Responses to Cerro Torre By Fair Means

1. 

   Marc August 26, 2012 at 3:31 pm #

   what about David Lamas ascent!?

   GD Star Rating
   loading...

   Reply
   • 

     PBC August 27, 2012 at 11:09 am #

     David’s ascent was shortly thereafter, and IIRC, the first free ascent of that line. While they didn’t pull all the bolts, it seems the pulled a few that Lama was hoping to use, so he had to work around that.

     GD Star Rating
     loading...

     Reply
   • 

     Brett Bloxom August 27, 2012 at 1:02 pm #

     the video is about the first fair means ascent of Cerro Torre, not about the first free ascent. If you know anything about David Lamas history on this mountain you would understand why he doesnt fit into the theme of this video, regardless of his success this past season

     GD Star Rating
     loading...

     Reply
2. 

   Marc August 27, 2012 at 6:18 pm #

   Sorry, Brett, I don’t get your point. Why would Lama not fit into the theme if he had climbed to the summit even “fairer” than Kennedy/ Kruk? (I know about his former ascents)

   GD Star Rating
   loading...

   Reply
   • 

     PBC August 28, 2012 at 11:05 am #

     I think Brett is referring to the fact that the first year Lama was there making his push, his film crew / Red Bull entourage sunk another (many) bolts to aid the filming/crew. They left a bit of a mess and promised to come back and clean up after themselves, but it left a bad taste in everyones mouth.

     Kennedy and Kruk summited by fair means, pulled the “excess” bolts, kicking off their own controversy. Lama was a week or two later with the first free ascent, but that was largely overshadowed by the firestorm the bolt pulling caused. From ‘Murder of the Impossible’ to ‘Murder of the Possible’ (both interesting reads)

     Can’t please everyone.

     GD Star Rating
     loading...

     Reply
3. 

   Marc August 29, 2012 at 8:03 am #

   Thank you, PBC. Your comment makes things clearer to me and to anyone who watches the video.
   I just seemed strange to me, that Lamas name wasn´t even mentioned. And, as you said, Kennedy and Kruk acted in a disputable way as well when chipping the Kompressor-bolts.

   GD Star Rating
   loading...

   Reply
4. 

   climber September 1, 2012 at 3:04 am #

   read this and use google translate. http://www.klettern.de/community/leute/david-lama-interview.653109.5.htm and things might get much clearer.

   3 short comments.
   First, Lama did a new variant, which is a line on its one, and would deserve to be mentioned.
   Second, according to this article, Kennedy and Kruk used a bolt, while Lama did not.
   Third, Lama understood that he made a mistake (as everybody does, particlularly in young years). I hope you guys who still continue to point finger on others are free from any sins….

   GD Star Rating
   loading...

   Reply
5. 

   climber September 1, 2012 at 3:07 am #

   @PBC – your assumptions that Lama would have wanted to user the bolts is your own speculation, but does not reflect the truth. The original line with the bolts is much harder to climb, and the bolt traverse even impossible. So please do not spread any speculations, and thereby accuse others. As this also leaves a bitter aftertaste.

   GD Star Rating
   loading...

   Reply
   • 

     PBC September 1, 2012 at 2:11 pm #

     Sorry, just working off what I had read here earlier in the year:

     http://climbingnarc.com/2012/01/the-plot-thickens-on-cerro-torre/

     From Lama’s facebook:
     “The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. “

     GD Star Rating
     loading...

     Reply