Ramon Julian Puigblanque reports on his blog (in Spanish) that he’s done the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Catxasa (5.15a) at Santa Linya. Just thinking about the fact that it was 39° C (~102° F) when he sent the 150 ft.
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route makes me sweat as I type this…
Catxasa (5.15a) 2nd Ascent By Ramon Julian Puigblanque
Safety First, Fun Second, Speed Third
Incredibly detailed pitch-by-pitch beta from Hans Florine from his recent record-breaking speed ascent of The Nose with Alex Honnold. You know, just in case you’re planning your own sub-three hour run up El Cap.
2012 International Climbers’ Festival Fast Approaching
Interview with BJ Tilden as the 2012 International Climbers’ Festival in Lander, WY fast approaches
Video Friday – 6/22/2012
The top videos of the past week
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Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ian Dory
Ian Dory is back in Australia again with Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival after a successful 2011 trip that he recapped in this excellent report. In that post Dory mentions his efforts on Dai Koyamada’s Grampians testpiece The Wheel Of Life:
Overall the climb is a combination of 5 boulder problems: v9, v12, v9, v11, v8. After climbing with James Kassay I have been incredibly motivated to come back and take it down next trip.
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But what James has also taught me is that this climb takes time and is truly hands down difficult.
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It looks like Dory’s motivation paid off as he was able to complete the full problem for its likely 7th ascent a few days ago.
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5.14d FA By Ethan Pringle
In a lengthy catch up-style blog entry, Ethan Pringle eventually gets around to mentioning that he did the FA of an old Joe Brooks project at Mt. Charleston, NV called Arrested Development. He describes the potentially 5.14d route as fun, heavily chipped and pretty hard:
I spent about 5 days on it this year, giving it 2-3 tries per day. I managed to send the route on my first try on my fifth day in May.
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While the route is manufactured, and heavily in spots, it is still one of the most fun to climb on routes I’ve ever done
Florine & Honnold Blaze New Speed Record On The Nose
Alex Honnold & Hans Florine team up to break the speed record on The Nose
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- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
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Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
