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CEC Canadian Bouldering Nationals 2015

→ 5.14c Onsight By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar∞

Posted April 18, 2013 at 11:12 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain:

It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a desperate on-sight battle expecially since only 4 other climbers have ever on-sighted an 8c+ route before (Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos (9a) and Ramon Julian Puigblanque). I feel like I’m in the shape of my life after investing so much time in Neanderthal. Unfortunately it didn’t go this season, but at least I got to put the shape in good use.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 1 }

Magnus Midtbø

· Areas { 1 }

Rodellar

→ To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) By 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana∞

Posted April 18, 2013 at 8:32 am · Comments { 0 } ·

13-Year-Old Drew Ruana notches his 5th 5.14a with a repeat of To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR:

Although the grade is the same, what Drew just did is a huge step up in difficulty

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Drew Ruana

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Smith Rock

Utah Trip Part 1: Joe’s Valley

Posted April 17, 2013 at 10:15 am · Comments { 22 } ·

A few words and pictures from my first visit to Joe’s Valley, UT

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· Areas { 1 }

Joe's Valley

→ 5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold, a proposed 5.14c in Utah’s Cathedral:

So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome cave feature which is how it avoids all the rests and possibly makes it the hardest iteration of Golden. The style of the route is total power endurance; basically bouldery sequences with marginal rests the whole way starting with the one leaving Space Shuttle and culminating with the crux of Golden, an amazing sequence of spraggle pockets and tufa pinches on some of the best limestone I have touched. It is in my opinion the coolest crux sequence I have ever done.
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∞ · Comments { 7 } · Climbers { 1 }

Dan Mirsky

· Areas { 1 }

Cathedral

→ V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 9:07 am · Comments { 0 } · Photo: Jimmy Webb on La Rustica

Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica, a potential V14 in Valle Bavona:

One of the coolest projects i’ve ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try.
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Couldn’t ask for a better finish to my trip.

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Jimmy Webb

· Areas { 1 }

Valle Bavona

→ 2nd Ascent Of The Insurgency (V14) By Paul Robinson∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 7:07 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Paul Robinson had a nice trip to Joe’s Valley last week, repeating a couple of V13s and doing the 2nd ascent of James Litz’s The Insurgency (V14).

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Paul Robinson

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Joe's Valley

→ Bügeleisen∞

Posted April 15, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Nalle Hukkataival, blogging about his repeat of a V14 in Maltatal called Bügeleisen which was first done in 2001 by Klem Loskot:

Bügeleisen really is one of the BEST hard boulders in the world and that’s why I was pretty bummed that climbing such a great problem had to turn into an unenjoyable battle with other elements. Nevertheless, hats off for Klem Loskot for opening such an amazing boulder back in 2001!
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∞ · Comments { 6 } · Climbers { 1 }