Disappointing, but not surprising news for people excited about seeing climbing included in the 2020 Olympics in Buenos Aires:
The Executive Board (EB) of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) today recommended that baseball/softball, squash and wrestling be proposed to the 125th IOC Session for possible inclusion as an additional sport on the Olympic programme for the 2020 Olympic Games.
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet1:
I sent the pitch placing gear on lead except for a few pieces in the easier sections which I had left in place to make it easier to clean the route after each try, because it’s very overhanging. So a slightly purer ascent could still be done. The pitch is about 35m long and has no bolts, neither on the route itself nor at the belays.
You can see some footage of the route here.
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More reminders if you need them that sport climbing is not to be taken lightly:
Exhibit A is the close call experienced by Mike Doyle when the sling on a (fixed) draw broke during a fall.
Exhibit B is this bolt pulled removed from a popular route in the Red River Gorge.
Exhibit C is…well, the list goes on.
Eschewing fixed draws is one thing, but the implicit trust that is placed in fixed hardware like bolts is harder to square and is surely one of the most important issues facing climbers in the next decade.
DPM has a nice article laying out some even more recent fixed hardware issues from around the world along with some ideas on what can be done.
Nice report over at DPM from the 10th New River Rendezvous:
What once started as a grassroots gathering of core climbers has grown over the past decade into one of the most well-executed climber fundraising events in the country. The money raised from the event goes directly back into the Park in the form of new fixed hardware and infrastructure such as trails, improved parking, and access.
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This year, over 20,000 dollars was raised thanks to attendees and sponsors.
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One of these years I will actually make it out there to climb at that place!
Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday:
An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large rock flake holding a piece of safety gear broke loose. The rock gave way while Robison, 38, was climbing at 2,300 feet above the monolith’s base, and severed a rope that was fastening him to a belay station manned by his climbing partner. He fell past the station before a haul rope caught him and seized the fall, but the injuries were fatal.
SuperTopo has a good thread about the situation as well.
Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15). Graham put up the problem back in 2011 calling it one of the most challenging problems he had done in some time. The problem hadn’t seen much effort in the intervening years, but once Woods and Robinson set to work it didn’t take long before quick progress was made toward seeing a repeat or two.
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There is mention of a sit start being possible so this probably isn’t the last we’ve heard of this boulder.
Woods was fresh off doing the FA of a new problem called The Purge in Tickland Elkland outside Estes Park, CO. On his 8a scorecard he calls this proposed V14 “the full package line” and notes that he had to climb on it at night to get better conditions.
Update: More on the day at Paul’s blog
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