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Kim, Schubert Win 2014 Lead World Cup In Haiyang

Jakob Schubert and Jain Kim win the opening event of the 2014 Lead World Cup

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Noguchi, Hojer Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Haiyang

Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer continue their brilliant 2014 Bouldering World Cup season with gold in Haiyan

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Video Friday – 6/20/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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2014 IFSC Bouldering, Speed & Lead World Cup – Haiyang

The 2014 IFSC World Cup circuit continues this weekend in Haiyang, China with Bouldering, Lead and Speed events

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First 5.14c For Nina Caprez

27 year-old Swiss climber Nina Caprez has done her first 5.14c with a repeat of Hélix au pays des merveilles at France’s Pic Saint Loup:

“I fell in love”, Nina raves about the line. “This huge limestone cave was one of the best things I’ve ever seen in my life. The quality of rock is unbelievable: beside pure tufas you have perfect crimps, pockets…” From the moment she abseiled down into the cave ‘Pic de Saint Loup’ north of Montpellier, France, she wanted to climb on the huge fat tufa in the middle of the wall. “And I was a lucky girl – there was a route that was topping out on this huge tufa – the Hélix.

There is some footage of her on the route that can be seen here.

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Five Ten Camp Four Shoe

Nice review of my favorite non-climbing pair of shoes I own, the Five Ten Camp Four:

It’s nice to have a few time-tested items in your arsenal that you can simply order brand new every few years with full confidence in what you’re going to receive. No shopping around, no sizing up or deliberating over various products, you just know. Well, this shoe is that piece of gear for me, and my fourth pair just arrived in the mail yesterday.
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I’ve had two or three pairs of these shoes over the last several years and I’ve used them for just about everything from walking around town, hiking 14ers, easy 5th class climbing and many days scrambling around talus fields chasing the latest bouldering project.
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 They stick like glue to rock, they can take a ton of abuse and they last for a long time1.

  1.  Except the laces, those never last
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Video Friday – 6/13/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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On The Circuit

Nice piece by the inimitable BearCam for Rock & Ice about the incredible concentration of hard bouldering along Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park:

Bear Lake Road is Rocky Mountain National Park’s busiest byway, and must be driven with the utmost care, because tourists can and do stop anywhere. Oh, is that an elk? What most of these travelers don’t know is that if you drive this road starting from the Stanley Hotel—made famous in the classic horror flick “The Shining”—and continue through the north side of the park via Sheep Lake and down through a bit of Trail Ridge, you will have passed through the highest density of difficult boulder problems in North America—all within minutes of the car. Some problems are so close to the road that tourists might slow down and take a photo of you.

Hard to believe it’s been almost 4 years now since Daniel Woods did the FA of Hypnotized Minds, and it has yet to see a repeat despite sustained effort from some of the world’s best boulderers.

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