Climbing Areas Archives: Grampians

James Kassay Climbing Wheel Of Life Direct

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Ammagamma Sessions

Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees, is back in the climbing game after a long break.  This also means he’s back in the blogging game, and he just got done writing a pretty fascinating series of blog posts about his efforts to repeat the well-known Grampians V13, Ammagamma.

The catch?  Bradbury, who had previously climbed V13 some years back, was coming off a long break from climbing and had only climbed as hard as V7 before starting to project Ammagamma.
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 I won’t spoil the end except to share this bit from his unsuccessful 4th session on the problem.  Sound like anything you might do?

Here I was on my honeymoon and I was 100% focused on a boulder problem. I told Emily that I didn’t think I could leave without climbing Ammagamma. I told her I’d change my flight to NZ so that I could stay in the Grampians another week to keep on trying.
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What was I really saying? She told me that I just needed 1 good go, that I was going to do it this session.

How could I reconcile my own selfish pursuit with the fact that I was here with my wife? I didn’t know if I really would stay. I’d said it to gauge a reaction… but just saying it had made me ask bigger and deeper questions.

Check out the 5 part series by clicking the links below:

 Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5

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Scarred For Life – Australia

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Wheel Of Life Direct By James Kassay

James Kassay blogs about his recent FA of a more direct version of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel Of Life in the Grampians Hollow Mountain Cave:

So what is the Direct finish??? Well as I have said before, my aim wasn’t to just start at the bottom of the cave and climb to the top the easiest possible way (Not saying that there is anything wrong with that for those who choose to do it and its still far from an easy option).
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There are four established problems that originally made up the wheel of life and whilst some of the crux moves can be traversed around to make the line easier I wanted to start at the lowest part of the cave, then follow the established problems; X-treme Cool, Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Cant Dance and rather than taking the early exit out right I wanted to complete Dead Cant Dance up and slightly left which is the highest point of the cave and in my opinion the grandest line of the cave! So I started at the lowest point… Followed the established line of classic problems and finished at the highest point.
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New 5.14s From Fischhuber, Raether & Siegrist

New 5.14s From Fischhuber, Raether & Siegrist

Andy Raether, Kilian Fischhuber and Jonathan Siegrist add new 5.14s in Nevada, Australia and Idaho

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Ian Dory Sending Wheel Of Life

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Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ian Dory

Ian Dory is back in Australia again with Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival after a successful 2011 trip that he recapped in this excellent report.  In that post Dory mentions his efforts on Dai Koyamada’s Grampians testpiece The Wheel Of Life:

Overall the climb is a combination of 5 boulder problems: v9, v12, v9, v11, v8. After climbing with James Kassay I have been incredibly motivated to come back and take it down next trip.
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But what James has also taught me is that this climb takes time and is truly hands down difficult.
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It looks like Dory’s motivation paid off as he was able to complete the full problem for its likely 7th ascent a few days ago.
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