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Adam Ondra Talks About His New 5.14d In The Czech Republic

Adam Ondra writes for PlanetMountain about his new 5.14d in the Czech Republic:

I established “To tu jeste nebylo” together with Ondra Benes ground-up last autumn and I managed the first redpoint a few days ago. The name could be translated as “Never been here before” as this is a breakthrough in terms of difficulty on Czech sandstone.

The route in question was rap bolted and chipped against the local ethic some years ago and was subsequently chopped before Ondra and Ondra1 re-bolted it at their own peril last year.  Gnar.

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I Flashed That On My 3rd Redpoint Shot Of The Day…

Australian photographer Simon Carter has a nice dispatch from Catalunya that includes some of his usual amazing pictures and a brief note on how public perception of how quickly things are being sent over there doesn’t always meet reality:

I first noticed something strange when a climber sent a route second time that they were on the route that day, and their ascent was reported in the media as “second go”, yet the detail about them having been on the route the previous year didn’t make it through to the news report.

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Adam Ondra On A New 5.14d In The Czech Republic

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Hard 5.14 First Ascent For Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Hard 5.14 First Ascent For Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Daniel Woods puts on a harness and puts down the FA of one of the Frontrange’s hardest routes

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James Pearson Repeats Escalatamasters (5.14d)

Writing on his blog about his recent redpoint of his first 5.14d―Escalatamasters (5.14d) at Perles, Spain―James Pearson offers some insight into the fact that sometimes grades do matter:

I loose count of how many times I must have said grades are not important, insisting instead it is the beauty of the climb and the moves that I search for. Yet for the last few years, hiding just a little way beneath everything else, was an urge to succeed only for a number. It might have been small, barely noticeable at times, but there it sat none the less, an ever present hope for something I thought perhaps I would never achieve.

But it’s a nice number, don’t you think? 9a [5.14d]. I hope you can forgive my shallowness?

Check out the full post for a nice recap of Pearson’s effort on the line as well as a handful of nice pictures of the route.

Update:  Thanks to the commenter who unearthed this footage of Dave Graham on the route

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I Believe I Can Fly

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DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

It was another low gravity day (or days) at Oliana as Americans Sasha DiGiulian and Ben Spannuth both had good days over the weekend

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