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Jacopo Larcher Climbing In Siurana

Posted March 18, 2013 at 9:03 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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Posted March 18, 2013 at 8:02 am · Comments { 14 } ·

Tommy Caldwell, writing for La Sportiva about a trip to Switzerland that had him questioning the mantra that “Sport Climbing is Neither”:

Yeah, sport climbing is the safe type of climbing… right. That is what I was telling myself as I looked down and saw my rope hanging free for thirty feet then gently arcing towards my last bolt more than 40 feet away. I looked up… no more bolts in sight and no possible place for gear either.
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If I fall here I am looking at a 100-foot fall that will leave me hanging 40 feet below my belayer.
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But it’s a free fall. I should be all right…maybe.

∞ · Comments { 14 } · Climbers { 3 }

Luca Schiera, Matteo Della Bordella, Tommy Caldwell

· Areas { 2 }

Rätikon, Wendenstock

Amazing U.S. Trip By Alex Megos

Posted March 14, 2013 at 9:15 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Much like Toru Nakajima, Alex Megos is an under the radar bone crusher that I have somehow failed to post about up to this point. I actually saw Megos climbing in the flesh back in November in the Red River Gorge when I saw this unassuming kid I didn’t recognize walk up two .
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12d’s in a row as a warmup in the same way I might climb a 5.
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6. In a word: effortless.

Once I got home I recognized him as the kid who flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) in the Red and repeated The Fly (5.14d) in Rumney. His trip was far from over though, and DPM has the rundown on the rest of his time stateside that saw him climb a lifetime’s worth of hard routes and boulders.

∞ · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 1 }

Alex Megos

· Areas { 0 }

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First 5.14 By 10-Year-Old Jonathan Hörst

Posted March 11, 2013 at 6:05 pm · Comments { 15 } ·

Jonathan Hörst ticks his first 5.14 before he hits age 11

Read full story · Comments { 15 } · Climbers { 1 }

Jon Hörst

· Areas { 1 }

Red River Gorge

Change

Posted March 7, 2013 at 1:44 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra, writing for Black Diamond about his route Change (5.15c):

I have had many significant changes in my life recently. The end of school turned my life and climbing into completely different perspective. Loads of time, total freedom to travel wherever I want is something I had been dreaming about for years. Finally I have the time to travel abroad along with a drill and create something inspiring enough to put a massive effort into. To find the first proof of this change, instead of heading south as always when we go climbing, we headed north instead. Change is life.

Don’t miss the accompanying video.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }