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Ethan Pringle Climbing Joe Blau (5.14c)

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ Ticking Time Bombs∞

Posted May 23, 2013 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

More reminders if you need them that sport climbing is not to be taken lightly:

Exhibit A is the close call experienced by Mike Doyle when the sling on a (fixed) draw broke during a fall.

Exhibit B is this bolt pulled removed from a popular route in the Red River Gorge.

Exhibit C is…well, the list goes on.

Eschewing fixed draws is one thing, but the implicit trust that is placed in fixed hardware like bolts is harder to square and is surely one of the most important issues facing climbers in the next decade.

DPM has a nice article laying out some even more recent fixed hardware issues from around the world along with some ideas on what can be done.

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3 Days With Ethan Pringle

Posted May 21, 2013 at 12:34 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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Verdon Dreaming: Monique Forestier Climbing Tom et je Ris (5.14a)

Posted May 15, 2013 at 7:46 am · Comments { 1 } ·
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→ 3rd Ascent Of Corona (5.15a) By Alex Megos∞

Posted May 14, 2013 at 2:30 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a) in Germany’s Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German).  Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft.
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line.  This is his 3rd 5.15 after La Rambla in Siurana and his route Classified which is also in the Frankenjura.

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→ Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra∞

Posted May 8, 2013 at 9:51 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you’re scoring at home.

I’m starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.

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→ Unfinished Business∞

Posted May 7, 2013 at 2:23 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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Any takers?

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