Adam Ondra and Magdalena Röck win the 2014 Lead World Cup stop in Imst, Austria
Ondra, Röck Win 2014 Lead World In Imst
USA Climbing’s 2014 SCS Youth Nationals Highlight Reel
One Week With Alex Megos
2014 IFSC Lead World Cup – Imst Live
The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Imst, Austria
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→ Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b)∞
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:
The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…
→ Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)∞
Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World at Little Si, WA:
The early morning routine, if you don’t already know this about me, is sport climbing ‘alpine style’ starting at the crack of dawn. We call ourselves the Breakfast Club or the Morning Crew and though the group has dwindled down over the years to only a few remaining, it was exciting to see a resurgence in numbers. The morning group has been gathering and climbing at this wall and Exit 38 since as early as 2005. We come from all around the city, meet and carpool to the cliff sometimes in the dark so we can get the most time on the wall before having to rush back to the city for work.
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While there has been an ebb and flow of the morning group, there has generally been a core set, primarily Microsoftees, that have endured and includes myself. These early morning sessions allow us to get in some good climbs with cooler temps and no crowds.
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We get in a full day at work and for those with families, get to enjoy dinner at home with their spouse and kids. In the summer, the sun hits the wall as early as 8:30 and if it’s a hot day, can become impossible to climb on the wall by 9:30, which is perfect for us. We can easily be off the wall and in the office by 10:30/11am.
I’ll always be that much more impressed with someone’s hard climbing if they are doing it while juggling “real world” responsibilities at the same time.
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Strawberry Roan
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