Did he want to make another move after clipping the chains and blow it?
Maybe b/c he clipped the chains low and wanted the full top of the world feeling? Leif’s freak out was definitely a happy “I can’t believe I sent” thing – not an “oh shit i blew it.”
Why not give a tentative grade rating?
nice vid, nice production, nice shots. only gripe is kris hampton commenting that the approach is more exercise than most american’s get in a year. whoa, dude. so badass. on a more serious level, by comparing his actions to others kris shows his immaturity. then again, what do you expect from a former rapper come sponsored climber? if he really wants to be like todd, he would not have made the video.
I had the same reaction – it actually ruined the entire piece for me. This isn’t a novel insight, but the climbing community feels increasingly overrun with this type of self-promoting BS. It’s the anti-Skinner and it’s really, really sad.
Wow, you offend easily. It was funny and it’s true.
Well, Paul, it’s actually not true. A quick jaunt on Google reveals that, on average, Americans exercise 17 minutes/day. That’s 119 min/week, or roughly 2h. So, to claim that the hike in is more exercise than the average American gets in a year is to state that the hike in takes more than 104 hours.
As for being offended, I’m not. I’m just disappointed.
I don’t think he was speaking as an authority on the matter. That said, 17 minutes in a 16 hour day of wakefulness is really very little exercise and exceeding it is hardly self promoting. I have to agree with Paul that you’re being a little touchy. (Unless you saying the comment ‘ruined the entire piece’ for you was your attempt at hyperbole?)
Making that comment in a video that is going to be public = a little egocentric. Never-the-less, I can’t help but acknowledge that it’s probably true. Maybe if enough people give him grief about the comment, he’ll write a sick new rap jam about it. I can see it now: DJ SNAKE & ODUB – HIKE UP FOR WHAT?!
The comments on here are great, some people take this s**t too seriously. Kris’ comment about the approach were mostly tongue in cheek. The hike to the Roan took us an hour one way carrying only water and food, there’s absolutely no trail (i.e. bushwhacking through sage and cheatgrass) and the elevation gain is just under 1000 ft in what seemed like just a few hundred yards. The video doesn’t show the agony of the approach, it’s neither here nor there. Kris is a great guy and I couldn’t have sent without him, we unlocked sequences together, tried together, suffered together. It was a team experience I would wish anyone whether it be on a 5.8 or a 5.15. I tentatively graded the Roan .13d, it’s a suggestion and a best guess. I have no doubt someone younger, stronger, better looking, and more technically advanced will come along some day and proclaim it easier, that’s how this process works. Fred Nicole once told me that grades are nothing more than a suggestion. Better beta, shorter approaches, hotter camera girls, all help subsequent followers to achieve success more rapidly.
Oh, and the freakout at the chains was out of disbelief, nothing but pure joy! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoyed the video as much as we enjoyed making it.
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