Here is one last video from the footage that Paul Robinson was kind enough to send along. This time up he is depicted repeating The Swarm, an “easy” V14 at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. Along with Hueco’s Esperanza (V14), The Swarm is the most repeated V14 in the U.S. Somewhat notable is that […]
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Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM
The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.
Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt
Check out this incredible video of Brit George Ullrich attempting to flash Gaia.
Nameless Arete
The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…
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Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana
Chris Sharma ups the ante in Spain. UPDATED
Dave Graham’s ‘The Island’ (V15) Repeated Twice
Dave Graham’s Fontainebleau testpiece The Island (V15) is repeated twice.
Extremist’s Guide To Devil’s Lake New Climbs
Any climber that has spent time on the quartzite cliffs at Devil’s Lake State Park knows that it has a rich and colorful history. Legends like Fritz Wiessner, John Gill and Pete Cleveland all spent time there back in the day, and there is a lot of interesting history behind many of the routes. I […]
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