Nameless Arete

Nameless Arete

The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating.  Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things).  However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out.  Especially for me…  

The problem ascends the tall, striking arete to the left of Sandstone Violence.  There is some bad rock near the arete that has broken over the years, but the arete itself is very solid.  The real trick to this problem is figuring out how to keep from barn-dooring off the bottom moves.  I tried many different variations before successfully gaining the upper part of the arete.  The top is rather high, but thankfully it is much easier.

Somewhat amusing, in this day of certain sites insisting that the time spent on a problem directly correlates to its difficulty, is the fact that it took me more tries to send Nameless Arete than its much more difficult neighbor.  Of course, two split tips didn’t really help.

Because I am a punter, I had to stitch together this sequence of photos across multiple attempts.  Just ignore the different wardrobe/shoe/spotter combinations.  Thanks to Chris for taking the photos!

Posted In: Bouldering, Pictures
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16 Responses to Nameless Arete

  1. Chris December 18, 2008 at 11:34 am #

    Cool sequence of shots and great route. I don’t think I heel hooked around the arete, just got high foot onto the chip. But your way is more aesthetic. Keep em coming!

    PS. I was disappointed I was not credited with at least a couple of these shots, LOL. if they get published I demand a knife with a hole for a carabiner in it as compensation.

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  2. Narc December 18, 2008 at 11:39 am #

    I might not have on the actual send either. Most of the pictures are from failed attempts. Obfuscation of beta is one of my methods of keeping ahead of the kids.

    Meant to give credit but forgot!

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  3. Chris December 18, 2008 at 11:48 am #

    Just razzin. Don’t care.

    FWIW, Nameless took me like 2-3 tries in one session earlier this summer (early May) where it’s neighbor took 40+ tries over 4 days/many months, an estimated 18,000 pullups, 45,000 crunches, 20,000 pushups and countless forearm exercises from the time I first laid hands on it until the send. So your experience is perhaps not typical (?). ‘Course I am very old. And you are not.

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  4. Chris December 18, 2008 at 12:00 pm #

    I guess that’s not fair either, since Nameless had the benefit of the training for Sandstone for me. Whatever. Back to work.

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  5. sweapants December 18, 2008 at 12:04 pm #

    Chris…u are old indeed but the narc must be crap at figuring out beta. Haha. awsome climb for sure!

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  6. Chris December 18, 2008 at 12:35 pm #

    He seems to have figured out SV pretty quick, tho he had a video of the beta to study beforehand…

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  7. sweapants December 18, 2008 at 12:45 pm #

    my point exactly. He’s a beta sniper

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  8. Chris December 18, 2008 at 1:52 pm #

    Well, sweaty, I’ll admit that when I got frustrated/stuck i went as far as emailing the FA asking what the hell to do with my right hand for the crux. If there had been a video I can guarantee I would have been scouring it for details. So i guess we’re all guilty of that to some degree. Well, another unrelated (to the topic at hand) pointless discussion, but it’s been fun. Gotta go try to beat the snow home.

    Anyway Narc thanks for the photo essay on this great prob. and happy holidays to you and Sweaty.

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  9. Tony December 18, 2008 at 2:01 pm #

    The narc is notorious for his beta whoring.

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  10. Narc December 18, 2008 at 2:02 pm #

    I am well known for my poor beta deciphering skills. I was being a bit flip about my experience with nameless though as it was the end of the day and I was quite chuffed from trying BOTB and SV.

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  11. sweapants December 18, 2008 at 2:03 pm #

    Stop sticking up for him just cause ur trying to get a free knife with a hole for a carabiner! Sellout. Anyways happy holiday to u too my friend and to all the rest of u lame asses. Were to ur math’s faces.

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  12. Chris December 18, 2008 at 2:43 pm #

    Busted. I do think that little knife with the hole in it is pretty cool. What to do with my REI dividend… That is, if the Narc doesn’t cough one up for me. Peace out.

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  13. Dick Fitzenceider December 18, 2008 at 3:02 pm #

    Punter…Chuffer? Crikey gv’nor, ya sound lik yous from ta Nort alrighty.

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    • Narc December 18, 2008 at 3:04 pm #

      reading too many UK climbing sites lately…

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  14. The Adventure Channel December 19, 2008 at 2:33 am #

    Nice pictures!

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  15. Seth December 19, 2008 at 3:50 am #

    Great pics. Problem looks excellent.

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