Sandstone Violence

Sandstone Violence

Over the past month, as Fall conditions have finally arrived here in Wisconsin, I have been slowly working my way through some of the harder problems at Governor Dodge in an attempt to get some fitness back.  The end goal has been to repeat the classic problem Sandstone Violence (V8).  I have been wanting to do this problem ever since I read about its FA by Jason Huston 2 years ago, and it is something I have been working toward throughout my entire rehab this year.

The problem Sandstone Violence has (in my opinion) the recipe for a perfect boulder problem.  It begins and ends on a jug, climbs using 4 bad crimps and has a bit of height to it.  The only negative thing that one could say about the problem is that one of the crimps is a bit sharp, but I digress.

I first gave the problem some serious attempts a couple of weeks back and quickly worked out every move save for the last one.  I returned this past Wednesday with fresher skin and the video of Nic’s ‘jump’ beta ingrained in my mind.  After a couple of misfires, I committed to Nic’s beta for the last move and stuck the jug!  While climbing a V8 is not impressive in the grand scheme of things, I was very pleased to climb something near my pre-injury limits.  Hopefully this is a sign that 2009 will be a good year.  

Saturday was another fine day here in Wisconsin with temps in the mid-40’s, so I made the 2 hour trip out to the Dodge.  With no real plan for once, I met Chris, Jay, Kayte, Paul and John for a day of messing around on the boulders at Group Camp B.
buy xenical online http://alluredentalcare.co.uk/wp-content/themes/twentytwentythree/styles/json/xenical.html no prescription

 Chris and I both came agonizingly close to repeating Battle Of The Bulge (V7ish, unrepeated?) until I suffered a badly split tip on the problem’s incredibly sharp holds.  I taped up to stem the flow of blood to give it a few more goes, but in the end I had to give up my aspirations of repeating it.  Fortunately though, the day was not lost (see below).
buy lexapro online http://alluredentalcare.co.uk/wp-content/themes/twentytwentythree/styles/json/lexapro.html no prescription

Given that the Dodge is usually deserted during the times I have climbed there, it was good to meet some new people on Saturday.  I, of course, did what any self respecting Narc would do and made them take pictures of me repeating Sandstone Violence…
buy clomid online http://alluredentalcare.co.uk/wp-content/themes/twentytwentythree/styles/json/clomid.html no prescription

DSC_6659 

DSC_6661 

DSC_6662

 DSC_6663

DSC_6664

 DSC_6667

Sticking the jump move

DSC_6668

DSC_6672

Thanks to Kayte for taking the pictures!

Posted In: Bouldering
Tags:
Areas:

Subscribe

Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

12 Responses to Sandstone Violence

  1. Chris December 1, 2008 at 11:49 am #

    Agreed. Great day. Good to meet you finally. Great photos!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  2. Situner December 1, 2008 at 2:35 pm #

    Nice send Narc!

    That thing looks AWESOME!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  3. sock hands December 1, 2008 at 2:38 pm #

    superdope line, indeed.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  4. Narc December 1, 2008 at 2:43 pm #

    I should have also said that my perfect boulder problem has great moves in addition the other attributes I mentioned. This problem obviously has great moves.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  5. JE December 1, 2008 at 2:53 pm #

    Ah, balancing the fine line between reporting and spray, well done, on all levels.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  6. nicros December 1, 2008 at 4:02 pm #

    uh.. you are pulling way to far “out” on the last picture and not “down”… that hold is delicate and needs some down not out attention.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  7. Narc December 1, 2008 at 4:07 pm #

    Very true, although 3 times of doing it that way and the hold still feels solid. I was trying not to think about what would happen if it broke as I would become a projectile flying into the woods. I will reevaluate beta if/when I am in need of topping out that boulder again.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  8. Jason Huston December 1, 2008 at 4:52 pm #

    Congrats, Brian! Good work and cool pics.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  9. Narc December 1, 2008 at 5:30 pm #

    Thanks Jason. Major props to you for the FA…and all the other badass stuff you did while living in WI of course!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  10. Paul December 8, 2008 at 3:30 pm #

    Man that was a great day! It was nice finally meeting Brian and Chris; and damn Brian you made SV look easy! 🙂

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  11. Chris December 8, 2008 at 4:38 pm #

    Good to meet you too Paul. It was cool to see you almost nail the left crimp skipping the double pinches. Helps to be 6’7″ (maybe?). See you next time!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. What A Difference A Week Makes | Climbing Narcissist - December 10, 2008

    […] weekends ago I was out at Governor Dodge pulling down on sandstone boulder problems in a t-shirt.  Conditions really could not have been much better.  At the time, […]

Leave a Reply