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→ Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15∞

Posted July 28, 2014 at 8:23 am · Comments { 7 } ·

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day.
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Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

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Adam Ondra Climbing Hades (5.14d)

Posted July 28, 2014 at 8:16 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Sparkshop 2014 Reel

Posted July 27, 2014 at 2:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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Hoya Moros 2014

Posted July 24, 2014 at 8:42 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices

Posted July 24, 2014 at 8:42 am · Comments { 7 } ·

A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.

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Rock Climbing Classics – EP #5 Grand Illusion (5.13b)

Posted July 23, 2014 at 2:26 pm · Comments { 5 } ·
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→ 1975∞

Posted July 23, 2014 at 8:52 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Sonnie Trotter:

In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of the Shield on El Capitan in Yosemite, and hoped to find the perfect training ground close to home.
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The Shield is a thin, technically challenging seam, and the three local boys (found in this photo below), finally discovered what they thought would be the ideal line, a rare and steep splitter finger crack on a blank wall.
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Cool story.

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