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HP40 For The New Year

HP40 For The New Year

Tomorrow we will heading to Steele, AL to ring in the New Year at HP40.  I’m nursing a tweaked finger on my right hand and Mrs. Narc is still recovering from her unfortunate ankle injury so it will be another low key HP40 trip.  This will be our third consecutive trip there where one or […]

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Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Daniel Woods…

Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Daniel Woods…

The bouldering at Arkansas’s Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was featured in Dosage III in a memorable piece culminating with Chris Sharma’s FA of Witness The Fitness. This footage is presumably what lured the likes of Ethan Pringle, Ty Landman and Dave Graham to the woods of Arkansas. Given the two high profile pieces on Arkansas bouldering, it was only a matter of time before other strong climbers decided to stop to check things out. UPDATED 12/30/08

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Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM

Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM

Over the long holiday weekend, Momentum Video Magazine posted up a video by Scott Neel of Lynn Hill’s ascent of Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks. You can check it out by clicking here. As usual, a couple of things jumped out at me while watching the brief video (other than the impressive nature of the climbing).

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Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)

Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)

Here is one last video from the footage that Paul Robinson was kind enough to send along.  This time up he is depicted repeating The Swarm, an “easy” V14 at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA.  Along with Hueco’s Esperanza (V14), The Swarm is the most repeated V14 in the U.S.   Somewhat notable is that […]

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Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM

Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM

The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.

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Nameless Arete

Nameless Arete

The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…

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Dave Graham’s ‘The Island’ (V15) Repeated Twice

Dave Graham’s ‘The Island’ (V15) Repeated Twice

Dave Graham’s Fontainebleau testpiece The Island (V15) is repeated twice.

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