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New V14 In RMNP By Daniel Woods

B3Bouldering has the lowdown on Mirror Reality, a new V14 established by Daniel Woods in RMNP, CO:

There are only a handful of boulders in the area, but this relatively short problem is one of the best. The first move is a difficult one, perhaps the crux, and it is followed by small flat edges which culminate in a difficult dyno to the lip of the boulder and a tenuous and subtle top out.

Update –  More from Woods on the new line:

The nature of the rock is glassy with large chunks of crystal seamed together, creating just enough friction to hold on. The beginning is steep (45 degree angle), but as soon as you reach the lip, the angle changes to a bulged out slab.
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You begin with a 4 move V12 which crux revolves around a low percentage first move. The theme of the problem begins (most of the time concludes) at the half way point of the boulder. Here you take a flat full pad edge with your right hand and a flat half pad edge with your left, place your right toe on a needle tip piece of crystal, and jump blindly over the bulge to a glassy sloper with your left hand. This one move in itself is around V11 and is tough to stick from this point, let alone from the beginning.
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The exit is a 4 move V9/10 with a hard right foot rock over to the finishing edge. At this point you are relieved and can walk off to the right.

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Dave Graham Ends 2011 On High Note With V14 FA

Dave Graham Ends 2011 On High Note With V14 FA

Dave Graham finished 2011 on a high note by sending his project near Estes Park, CO which he is calling Memory is Parallax and suggesting a grade of V14 for according to this entry on his 8a scorecard:

Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps. Looks kinda like Stained Glass, but its much bigger!
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SYKED!!!

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“Let Me List Some Of My Recent Accomplishments”

The then 14-year-old Chris Sharma in a 1996 letter to Prana about a potential sponsorship deal:

By sponsoring me you will be getting tons of free advertisement

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Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a)

16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain.  The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque.  The accepted grade for this route these days seems to be 5.15a, but Rock and Ice has a good recap of this history of the route including Huber’s thoughts on how the grade of this route and many others has been inflated over the years:

“It’s a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ (5.14c) to 9a+ (5.15a). Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension.”

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News & Notes – 12/20/2011

News & Notes – 12/20/2011

Tell Santa to take the week off…News & Notes is back with this massive dump of news…

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Rock & Ice’s Top 10 Ascents Of 2011

Rock & Ice unveils their countdown of the top 10 ascents of 2011.  One could certainly quibble with the ordering of things, but I think it’s pretty clear that 2011 was the opposite of a failure for everyone on the list.

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Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years

DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years:

My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cinnabons, and chocolate mousse.  My strengths are climbing in any conditions and whenever I can.

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