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Low Start To The Story Of Two Worlds For Dai Koyamada

Low Start To The Story Of Two Worlds For Dai Koyamada

Redemption of sorts for Dai Koyamada in Cresciano

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10-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats Crown Of Aragorn (V13)

10-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats Crown Of Aragorn (V13)

Wow

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Hard 5.14 First Ascent For Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Hard 5.14 First Ascent For Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Daniel Woods puts on a harness and puts down the FA of one of the Frontrange’s hardest routes

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James Pearson Repeats Escalatamasters (5.14d)

Writing on his blog about his recent redpoint of his first 5.14d―Escalatamasters (5.14d) at Perles, Spain―James Pearson offers some insight into the fact that sometimes grades do matter:

I loose count of how many times I must have said grades are not important, insisting instead it is the beauty of the climb and the moves that I search for. Yet for the last few years, hiding just a little way beneath everything else, was an urge to succeed only for a number. It might have been small, barely noticeable at times, but there it sat none the less, an ever present hope for something I thought perhaps I would never achieve.

But it’s a nice number, don’t you think? 9a 1. I hope you can forgive my shallowness?

Check out the full post for a nice recap of Pearson’s effort on the line as well as a handful of nice pictures of the route.

Update:  Thanks to the commenter who unearthed this footage of Dave Graham on the route

  1. 14d
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Credit Where Credit Is Due?

Credit Where Credit Is Due?

Indulge me for a second as I take credit for Dave Graham’s latest V14 FA in Hueco Tanks…

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DPM Interview With Alex Johnson

DPM catches up with Alex Johnson for a wide-ranging interview about sexism, the balancing act between climbing in comps and climbing outside and sponsorship:

I think it should be difficult to get sponsored, like in surfing or snowboarding. We would have a more select group of positive role models and icons in our community for reasons other than just ability.
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Adam Ondra Interviewed By Mountains & Water

Great interview with Adam Ondra over at Mountains and Water:

I have always taken climbing really seriously. Climbing hard and obtaining my goals has always been very important. It was very difficult to admit failure and I did get frustrated. But at same time, it has always been a perfect and beautiful game to play.
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