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Mayan Smith-Gobat Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)

Mayan Smith-Gobat Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)

Mayan Smith-Gobat pulls off the first female ascent of Punks In The Gym

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Paige Claassen Cuts Trails

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Adam Ondra Flashes Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d) – Updated

Adam Ondra Flashes Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d) – Updated

Yep

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Two 5.14c’s By Ashima Shiraishi In The Red River Gorge

11-year-old Ashima Shiraishi had an incredible trip to the Red River Gorge over the past week or so.
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 She started the trip by climbing her first 5.14a and then flashing her first 5.14a shortly thereafter.  With that out of the way she set her sights on something a little harder, and in back to back days on Friday and Saturday she succeeded in climbing both Southern Smoke and Lucifer.  DPM’s Mikey Williams was there on Friday for the Southern Smoke send and he has more details on the Lucifer send as well.  Amazing.

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PlanetMountain’s “Multi-pitch” Interview With Adam Ondra

Great interview from PlanetMountain with Adam Ondra covering competitions, his first year as a full-time climber, climbing styles and pushing his limits, like he did on his recent 5.15c FA Change:

 Recent times have definitely been a change for me, hence the name of this route, because it’s the epitome of all of this. It is like entering a new world, where all childhood obsessions and dreams are just multiplied. I now have endless possibilities about where to go – which is why I love climbing – and I myself don’t know what to do first.

It’s hard to believe that he’ll be 20 this coming February.

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Free Climbing The PreMuir

Brit Hazel Findlay has put together a nice post on her blog detailing her efforts, along with Neil Dyer and James McHaffie, to do the 2nd free ascent of the PreMuir (5.13+, 33 pitches) on El Capitan:

I think that when I look back at our PreMuir mission, what I will remember most is being on that ledge at 9.30 at night almost too mentally and physically tired of trying hard to enjoy the moment. We could taste the relief that was to come, but still there was some small doubt that we wouldn’t be able to pull it out of the bag. But skill, or good luck, or effort or something else was on our side and the next day we found ourselves at the top, too tired to sing and dance, but happy nonetheless.

It’s well worth reading the full post, which is loaded with great pictures from Tom Evans, to get a good sense of the effort required to free climb these hard lines on El Cap.

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So It Begins In The Red River Gorge – Updated

So It Begins In The Red River Gorge – Updated

This could be a season to remember down in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Some guy named Adam Ondra will be there shortly, and several big names are already on the ground racking up sends.

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