While the good news I shared this morning from Ten Sleep is still great news, this is not great news out of Ten Sleep:
Around 2:00 a.m. on Monday, September 16, a climber from Ecuador was shot outside his tent in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, the popular sport climbing destination.
Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon. Once an area you just heard rumors about1, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice. Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.
This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep. Nice work!
In many ways German phenom Alex Megos seems like a robot sent from another planet to climb all our hardest routes and boulder problems without making much of a fuss about it, but this interview with Vertical Life gives at least one hint that he might be human:
You have already achieved an incredible amount but what is the facet of your climbing that you think you most need to work on?
Crack climbing. I was in Indian Creek last year on my road trip with my friend Peter Würth and I barely could climb a 5.
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12- crack. In every other area that’s my warming up grade.
Based on the one time I saw him climbing even 5.12- is too easy for his sport climbing warm up.
Nice recap with pictures by the UK’s Mina Leslie-Wujastyk of her six week trip to Rocklands which saw her climb 8 V11s and 1 V12, but not that V12:
One sad thing was the closure of the Tea Garden area, which left me (and many others) unable to try Black Shadow (8A+). This was a nemesis from my last trip and so I was sad not to have the chance to revisit it. I can only hope that relations will improve with that particular landowner and the area will be re-opened in future years.
Jonathan Siegriest has wrapped up a successful trip to the Fins in southeast Idaho, adding a few new 5.14s to what is becoming a pretty fully developed wall for hard face climbing:
It’s not the biggest, or most extensive crag in the country but if face climbing is your stoke then honestly this area can not be missed. The discovery wall alone hosts nearly a dozen 5.13s and 5 5.14s, with a slew of 12’s to fill in the gaps.
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I doubt that it will ever develop into a uber popular crag – it’s in the middle of nowhere, it’s generally hard, the road to the camping is super burly and the hard routes are quite sporting.
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But for those of us that love this place – here’s to another rad season and hopefully I’ll see you out there again!
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