Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder.
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No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
Adam Ondra in an October 2011 interview with new Swedish website Stockholmsklättring:
I think I’m quite efficient in climbing routes in a few attempts but I do think that if I spent 50 tries or more on one route I might be able to climb 9b+1 but certainly I wouldn’t be able to climb any harder. You have to bear in mind that when you are working on a route for a long time there is a mental barrier which you have to breach. Additionaly in reality you loose your power because your only trying a handfull of moves which means you are not training so much. You just keep climbing the very same moves and it could be true that you progress on these specific moves but in reality your shape is decreasing.
My question for Ondra: When are you coming to America??
B3Bouldering has the lowdown on Mirror Reality, a new V14 established by Daniel Woods in RMNP, CO:
There are only a handful of boulders in the area, but this relatively short problem is one of the best. The first move is a difficult one, perhaps the crux, and it is followed by small flat edges which culminate in a difficult dyno to the lip of the boulder and a tenuous and subtle top out.
Update – More from Woods on the new line:
The nature of the rock is glassy with large chunks of crystal seamed together, creating just enough friction to hold on. The beginning is steep (45 degree angle), but as soon as you reach the lip, the angle changes to a bulged out slab.
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You begin with a 4 move V12 which crux revolves around a low percentage first move. The theme of the problem begins (most of the time concludes) at the half way point of the boulder. Here you take a flat full pad edge with your right hand and a flat half pad edge with your left, place your right toe on a needle tip piece of crystal, and jump blindly over the bulge to a glassy sloper with your left hand. This one move in itself is around V11 and is tough to stick from this point, let alone from the beginning.
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The exit is a 4 move V9/10 with a hard right foot rock over to the finishing edge. At this point you are relieved and can walk off to the right.
Dave Graham finished 2011 on a high note by sending his project near Estes Park, CO which he is calling Memory is Parallax and suggesting a grade of V14 for according to this entry on his 8a scorecard:
Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps. Looks kinda like Stained Glass, but its much bigger!
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SYKED!!!
The then 14-year-old Chris Sharma in a 1996 letter to Prana about a potential sponsorship deal:
By sponsoring me you will be getting tons of free advertisement
Kind of like this post??
16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain. The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. The accepted grade for this route these days seems to be 5.15a, but Rock and Ice has a good recap of this history of the route including Huber’s thoughts on how the grade of this route and many others has been inflated over the years:
“It’s a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ (5.14c) to 9a+ (5.15a). Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension.”
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