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Climbing Violations In Joshua Tree

Posted September 19, 2012 at 9:06 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Not cool:

A subsequent Park Service investigation of The Underground Chasm discovered hundreds of illegally placed bolts, fixed rope, burnt Joshua Trees, stashed camping and climbing gear, chipped steps and damage to other nearby trees and plants—all misdemeanors individually punishable by a mandatory court appearance and $5,000 fine.

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2012 World Championship Recap

Posted September 19, 2012 at 6:06 am · Comments { 1 } ·

PlanetMountain has an excellent recap of last week’s World Climbing Championships in Paris that saw Sean McColl and Jain Kim win overall gold.  It was not a great weekend for the American contingent as none of our athletes managed to even make finals in any of the main disciplines, but one bright spot was Craig Demartino finishing 3rd in the amputee leg division.

If you missed the action last week you can catch up on most of the comp on the IFSC Youtube channel.

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5.14 Crack Climb By Jonathan Siegrist

Posted September 18, 2012 at 9:31 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

On the heels of opening a potential 5.14d at the Fins in Idaho, Jonathan Siegrist wrapped up his trip by doing the FA of a beautiful looking 5.14 crack called Enter The Dragon.

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El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2012

Posted September 17, 2012 at 9:52 am · Comments { 3 } ·

So saddle up, Cubicle Pukes, and get on board for the ride of a lifetime these next few weeks… I am here and you can be too, if only in cyberspace!

Yep, the El Cap Report is back.  Again.

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Consequences Of Growth

Posted September 12, 2012 at 10:12 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Gustavo Moser:

The consequences of “growth” are starting to show; the impact on our crags is visible. Shameless ethics and a lack of climbing etiquette are actually changing and indeed damaging the climbing experience. This article is not intended to say what the “right” code of behavior is. It is intended to show that there is a problem and that the people and companies that expect to make a profit or a living from our sport are directly responsible for educating the people who decide to make this discipline a part of their lives.
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He goes on to list several things he feels could be done to address these issues that had me nodding as I read each one.
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2012 World Championships

Posted September 12, 2012 at 6:08 am · Comments { 3 } ·

The 2012 IFSC World Climbing Championships and the 2012 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are underway in Paris today with events filling the rest of the week.  Check out the live stream for a full schedule and to watch as 25 Americans test their skills against the world’s best climbers in pretty much every discipline of competition climbing.  Thanks to commenter Rajiv for this schedule:

Times in EST:

Wednesday:
6am-Noon: Women’s Lead Qualifications

Thursday:
3am-6am: Men’s Lead Qualifications
6am-Noon: Women’s Boulder Qualifications

Friday:
4am-6:30am: Men Bouldering Semi-Finals
8am-Noon: Para-climbing Finals, Female Lead Semi-finals

Saturday:
4am-6:30am: Female Bouldering Semi-Finals, Male Lead Semi-Finals
12:30pm: Male Bouldering Final
2:30pm: Para-climbing Final 2
3:15pm: Female Lead Final
4:15pm: Female Speed Final

Sunday:
7am: Female Bouldering Final
8:30am: Para-climbing Final 3
9:45am: Male Lead Final
10:45: Male Speed Final

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5.14a and b for Audrey Sniezek

Posted September 10, 2012 at 5:19 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

40-year-old Audrey Sniezek’s steady progress through the years has paid off the past couple of weeks at Little Si, WA.
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 A few weeks back she did the FFA of Dr. Evil (5.14a) and now, as detailed in the latest entry in her blog, she’s completed the FFA of Extended Evil (5.14b) which climbs part of Dr. Evil before branching off.

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