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Wheel Of Life Direct By James Kassay

Posted November 15, 2012 at 7:10 am · Comments { 0 } ·

James Kassay blogs about his recent FA of a more direct version of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel Of Life in the Grampians Hollow Mountain Cave:

So what is the Direct finish??? Well as I have said before, my aim wasn’t to just start at the bottom of the cave and climb to the top the easiest possible way (Not saying that there is anything wrong with that for those who choose to do it and its still far from an easy option).
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There are four established problems that originally made up the wheel of life and whilst some of the crux moves can be traversed around to make the line easier I wanted to start at the lowest part of the cave, then follow the established problems; X-treme Cool, Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Cant Dance and rather than taking the early exit out right I wanted to complete Dead Cant Dance up and slightly left which is the highest point of the cave and in my opinion the grandest line of the cave! So I started at the lowest point… Followed the established line of classic problems and finished at the highest point.
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Sean McColl’s 3 Weeks In Asia

Posted November 13, 2012 at 9:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The 2012 sport climbing World Cup wraps up this weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, but before it does I wanted to share a blog post that Sean McColl wrote about his recent 3 week swing through Asia for a trio of World Cups which found him on the podium for 2 out of the 3 events.  Ironically enough, the one event where he didn’t finish on the podium was the one event where he finished the finals route…
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along with every other competitor in finals.

McColl was also in Venezuela over the weekend where took 1st in the lead climbing portion of the PanAmerican Games and Sasha DiGiulian won both lead and bouldering for the women.
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 Climbing.com has more.

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Watch Hot Ache’s Latest Film, Odyssey, Free Until 11/20

Posted November 12, 2012 at 11:32 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Did someone say “free” and “climbing movie” in the same sentence?  Yep:

‘Odyssey’ is a road movie that celebrates the best of British trad climbing. From the bold Northumberland sandstone to the raging sea cliffs of Gogarth, four World-class climbers (James Pearson, Hazel Findlay, Hansjorg Auer and Caroline Ciavaldini) embark on a road-trip to attempt some of the most fierce and inspiring routes in the UK.
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Cinematic filmmaking, cutting edge traditional climbing and a 7.
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5 ton converted truck – the Odyssey begins!

Stream Odyssey for free on the Hot Aches website until 11/20 after which you’ll have to fork over whatever £14.99 1 is in U.S. American currency to add this movie to your collection.

  1.  £8.99 if you order while the movie is free to watch online ↩
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In Case You’re Also Out Of Hard Routes To Climb In Kentucky

Posted November 6, 2012 at 7:47 am · Comments { 12 } ·

What do you do if you’re Adam Ondra and none of the established routes at an area take you more than a few tries?  You bolt a new one of course.

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Training For Perfomance

Posted November 5, 2012 at 8:07 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Will Gadd:

If you “train” more than you do your sport then you’re probably confusing the reasons you train. Which is OK; “training” can be a sport.
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Crossfit is a sport in my mind, and I respect those athletes because they train with meaning and intensity and then (mostly) leave that in the gym.
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But there’s some dissonance between thinking you’re training for a sport and then never actually doing the sport you’re training for.
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Sound like anyone you know?

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Forest Woodward Red River Gorge Gallery

Posted November 2, 2012 at 11:42 am · Comments { 2 } ·

There have been a lot of words written about the Red River Gorge over the past two weeks but little visual media just yet.  While I suspect we’re in for a lot of videos in the weeks to come, this great photo gallery from Forest Woodward should hold you over until then.  I think my favorite is the one of Jimmy Webb on Fifty Words For Pump with Ashima Shiraishi climbing on Southern Smoke in the background.

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Who Invited This Guy Again?

Posted November 1, 2012 at 9:20 pm · Comments { 37 } ·

Word from DPM is that Adam Ondra onsighted both Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket today in the Red River Gorge. Both routes had been considered 5.14d but he apparently suggested downgrades for both.
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Wow. Um…thanks for coming?

You can see footage of Sasha DiGiulian repeating Pure Imagination here while some footage of Ethan Pringle on Golden Ticket can be seen here.

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