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Bouldering, Speed To Join Climbing’s Bid For Olympics

Posted March 19, 2013 at 9:43 am · Comments { 19 } ·

Insidethegames reporting on a change to the sport of climbing’s bid to be part of the 2020 Olympic Games:

The original proposal included just lead climbing, which tests the endurance of athletes as they compete to see who can get highest.

However, both speed climbing and bouldering will now also be included if climbing secures a spot at the 2020 Olympics.
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…snip…

This multi-discipline format will now be championed when the IFSC gives its presentation to the IOC Executive Board in St Petersburg at the end of May.
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With what’s happened with wrestling it’s hard to be optimistic about climbing’s chances of making it into the 2020 games, but this news seems like it could only help.

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SCIN

Posted March 18, 2013 at 8:02 am · Comments { 14 } ·

Tommy Caldwell, writing for La Sportiva about a trip to Switzerland that had him questioning the mantra that “Sport Climbing is Neither”:

Yeah, sport climbing is the safe type of climbing… right. That is what I was telling myself as I looked down and saw my rope hanging free for thirty feet then gently arcing towards my last bolt more than 40 feet away. I looked up… no more bolts in sight and no possible place for gear either.
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If I fall here I am looking at a 100-foot fall that will leave me hanging 40 feet below my belayer.
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But it’s a free fall. I should be all right…maybe.

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Kevin Landolt

Posted March 15, 2013 at 9:21 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

I was pretty bummed this afternoon to read the news that Kevin Landolt had passed away.  Kevin, who had been battling leukemia, was interviewed in episode 26 of the Enormcast which you can listen to here if you haven’t already1.

I may go back and listen again myself as Kevin’s situation was really quite powerful to hear, and I can’t quite imagine what it would be like to hear it now that he has unfortunately passed on.
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 I told myself upon initially listening that I would become a bone marrow donor through marrow.org, but as often happens in life I never quite got around to doing it until today after hearing this news.

My thoughts are with his friends and family.

  1.  I’d actually recommend going back and listening to all the episodes if you haven’t heard them.
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    ↩
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Freak Moments

Posted March 14, 2013 at 8:57 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Daniel Woods, blogging for The Island about his outlook for 2013 as well as his attempts on Lucid Dreaming:

Bouldering requires failure to gain success. The majority of our days are failing, and then we get that freak moment when everything clicks and have success.
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In practice this rings true for most of us I think, but then I think about the fact that Woods has flashed V14 and climbed V14 and V15 in a day.  I guess things just click more often for some us?  Either way, this is a good post to read more about a time when things didn’t quite click for Woods.
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 Something tells me not to get used to this happening though.

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Amazing U.S. Trip By Alex Megos

Posted March 14, 2013 at 9:15 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Much like Toru Nakajima, Alex Megos is an under the radar bone crusher that I have somehow failed to post about up to this point.  I actually saw Megos climbing in the flesh back in November in the Red River Gorge when I saw this unassuming kid I didn’t recognize walk up two .
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12d’s in a row as a warmup in the same way I might climb a 5.
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6.  In a word:  effortless.

Once I got home I recognized him as the kid who flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) in the Red and repeated The Fly (5.14d) in Rumney.  His trip was far from over though, and DPM has the rundown on the rest of his time stateside that saw him climb a lifetime’s worth of hard routes and boulders.

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Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Posted March 12, 2013 at 8:12 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Daniel Woods sending Bridge of Ashes via Bearcam's Instagram

Lest I get accused again of not giving him proper credit, please take note that Daniel Woods has made a quick second ascent of Dave Graham’s recently completed proposed V15 Bridge Of Ashes at Elkland in Estes Park, CO.  This according to this picture posted by Bearcam Media on Instagram.  No word yet on the grade, but the last two lines of this post on B3Bouldering sound about right to me.

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Cristian Brenna Interview

Posted March 11, 2013 at 12:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Lots of great perspective from Italian legend Cristian Brenna in this excellent interview by Andrew Bisharat including this nugget dispelling what I think is a common misconception about many sponsored climbers:

You see a lot of climbers with badges sewn onto their pants, which gives the impression that they are professionals, but they get like five carabiners and some shoes. Yeah, they are sponsored but they don’t get money.

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