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→ Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway∞

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet1:

I sent the pitch placing gear on lead except for a few pieces in the easier sections which I had left in place to make it easier to clean the route after each try, because it’s very overhanging. So a slightly purer ascent could still be done. The pitch is about 35m long and has no bolts, neither on the route itself nor at the belays.

You can see some footage of the route here.

  1.  Bear in mind that Favresse is no stranger to hard crack climbing having repeated lines like Squamish’s Cobra Crack (5.14) ↩
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→ Ticking Time Bombs∞

Posted May 23, 2013 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

More reminders if you need them that sport climbing is not to be taken lightly:

Exhibit A is the close call experienced by Mike Doyle when the sling on a (fixed) draw broke during a fall.

Exhibit B is this bolt pulled removed from a popular route in the Red River Gorge.

Exhibit C is…well, the list goes on.

Eschewing fixed draws is one thing, but the implicit trust that is placed in fixed hardware like bolts is harder to square and is surely one of the most important issues facing climbers in the next decade.

DPM has a nice article laying out some even more recent fixed hardware issues from around the world along with some ideas on what can be done.

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→ 10th New River Rendezvous∞

Posted May 22, 2013 at 7:50 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice report over at DPM from the 10th New River Rendezvous:

What once started as a grassroots gathering of core climbers has grown over the past decade into one of the most well-executed climber fundraising events in the country. The money raised from the event goes directly back into the Park in the form of new fixed hardware and infrastructure such as trails, improved parking, and access.
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This year, over 20,000 dollars was raised thanks to attendees and sponsors.
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One of these years I will actually make it out there to climb at that place!

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→ Tragic Death On El Capitan∞

Posted May 21, 2013 at 7:31 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday:

An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large rock flake holding a piece of safety gear broke loose. The rock gave way while Robison, 38, was climbing at 2,300 feet above the monolith’s base, and severed a rope that was fastening him to a belay station manned by his climbing partner. He fell past the station before a haul rope caught him and seized the fall, but the injuries were fatal.

SuperTopo has a good thread about the situation as well.

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→ Woods & Robinson Do First Repeats Of Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15)∞

Posted May 20, 2013 at 6:51 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15).  Graham put up the problem back in 2011 calling it one of the most challenging problems he had done in some time.  The problem hadn’t seen much effort in the intervening years, but once Woods and Robinson set to work it didn’t take long before quick progress was made toward seeing a repeat or two.
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 There is mention of a sit start being possible so this probably isn’t the last we’ve heard of this boulder.

Woods was fresh off doing the FA of a new problem called The Purge in Tickland Elkland outside Estes Park, CO.  On his 8a scorecard he calls this proposed V14 “the full package line” and notes that he had to climb on it at night to get better conditions.

Update:  More on the day at Paul’s blog

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→ NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness∞

Posted May 15, 2013 at 11:30 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Big news from the Access Fund:

After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness. This policy—Director’s Order #41—affects many of the country’s most important climbing areas such as Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks.

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→ Sean McColl’s First Bouldering World Cup Victory∞

Posted May 15, 2013 at 8:58 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Sean McColl, writing about how it felt to win his first bouldering World Cup over the weekend in Log Dragomer, Slovenia:

In my head I was saying “you won one, you did it”. At the top of the boulder I just started screaming. “YES”, “YES” is all that came out while fist pumping with one hand and locking off with the other.
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People tell me it’s moments like that in which I’ll remember forever.
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I can tell you that I won’t be forgetting that moment in many years to come.

Congrats to Sean, America’s adopted comp climbing son!

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