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→ New Free Route On Liberty Cap∞

Posted June 6, 2013 at 9:52 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Since I’ve only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lucho River and Cedar Wright:

Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright have completed the first all-free ascent of the southwest face of Liberty Cap above Yosemite Valley. The two men redpointed the 16-pitch route, tentatively called Mahtah (the Native American name for Liberty Cap), on May 31, with Wright leading the majority of the crux pitches and Rivera following free.

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→ More On Muir Wall Accident∞

Posted June 6, 2013 at 7:37 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap’s Muir Wall a few weeks ago:

Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and was on the cross-country team. He grew up exploring the mountains and rocks surrounding his home and became an experienced rock and ice climber.
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He was known for having robust lungs, which helped him link up multiple peaks in a day. He also sang and played the banjo.

Powerful photos from Cheyne Lempe.

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→ Deep Water Soloing Comp Coming To Summer OR Show∞

Posted June 5, 2013 at 11:31 am · Comments { 0 } ·

This is pretty exciting:

Capping off Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013, the Psicobloc Masters Series – the first deep water soloing competition ever held in the U.S. – will be held August 2, at the Utah Olympic Park in Park City.

Some of the world’s best climbers will be invited to compete head-to-head on a 50-foot wall using no ropes or harnesses, with only the Olympic Park’s 750,000-gallon freestyle aerial training pool to catch them below. The event will be open to the public and spectators will be treated to a ski jumping exhibition during the intermission periods.

The event is backed by the likes of Chris Sharma, and from what I’ve been hearing it promises to be something you won’t want to miss.

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→ 5.14+ FA By Steve McClure∞

Posted June 4, 2013 at 9:05 am · Comments { 0 } ·

42-year-old Steve McClure is still getting it done over in the UK, this time by making a new link-up in the 5.14d/5.15a-range at Malham called Batman:

Not so important for me to put a number on it as I have nothing left to prove, except that I’m not totally over the hill, but perhaps that’s only to myself!  I’ll never make superstar status now, I’ll never manage 9b+; anything below that is old hat in terms of big news. So it doesn’t matter what ‘9’ it is; 9a, 9a+ or 9b is just off the pace. However, it’s not a bad thing to put some kind of marker on a route.

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→ Another Death On El Capitan∞

Posted June 4, 2013 at 8:00 am · Comments { 13 } ·

More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan:

A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, June 2, 2013. Felix Joseph Kiernan, from London, England, was climbing on the East Buttress of El Capitan, a popular climbing route in Yosemite Valley, when he was struck by a rock.
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Stay safe out there everyone.

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→ Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky∞

Posted June 3, 2013 at 8:06 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky:

The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acres in Beattyville, Kentucky. Named the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, the land includes several miles of cliff line, some of which has been developed but with the vast majority of it awaiting discovery and development.
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There is potential for more than a dozen individual crags and hundreds of high-quality routes.
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The RRGCC is looking for the support of climbers in paying back the $245,000 purchase price, something they have had success with in the past with the recently paid-off 750 acre Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve.

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→ Climbing Will Not Be In 2020 Olympics∞

Posted May 29, 2013 at 11:17 am · Comments { 17 } ·

Disappointing, but not surprising news for people excited about seeing climbing included in the 2020 Olympics in Buenos Aires:

The Executive Board (EB) of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) today recommended that baseball/softball, squash and wrestling be proposed to the 125th IOC Session for possible inclusion as an additional sport on the Olympic programme for the 2020 Olympic Games.

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