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What Happened To Climbing Films

Chris Parker, writing in this week’s TNB for Rock & Ice:

Excuse the extended metaphor, but five-minute Internet videos or short films packaged and viewable only in a film festival format have all but replaced the narrative/character-driven, feature-length climbing movies of yesterday.

I’ve been a bit nostalgic lately myself for climbing movies of yesteryear, but I don’t think it has anything to do with filmmakers abandoning the feature-length format.  As Parker points out later in the piece when he reviews two feature-length movies that were just released, feature-length films are still being made1.  In fact, my favorite movies from “back in the day” were the Dosage movies which were, at a base level, a series of short films with no real inter-connected storyline packaged together.

I wonder a lot about whether or not the high esteem we hold older movies in is more a factor of where we were in our progression as climbers when those films were made.  I was just getting started climbing when movies like Rampage and Dosage 1 were made, and they played a formative role in shaping my growth as a young climber.  Watching them got me really psyched to go climbing, and me and my friends would, of course, try our best Obe Carrion or Dave Graham impressions out while we were flailing on V5s pretending we were climbing The Flying Marcel or something.  Re-watching those movies now elicits all kind of nostalgic feelings that movies made now can’t approach.  It seems likely that this was the case for Parker and the movies put out by Sender Films.

Am I just a sucker for nostalgia, or is there something more to this?  Let me know in the comments.

  1.  Quite a lot of them actually:  Island Vol 1, The Network, Chasing Winter, Western GoldThe Abyss and so on
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2nd Ascent Of La Force Tranquille (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival

Nalle Hukkataival is on a roll:

Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it together and climb it again next try all the way to the top! One of the best hard boulders in the world!!
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The Understanding

Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland:

This beautiful project caught my eye the very first time I saw it on my first trip to Magic Wood back in 2004 and being one of the most striking lines in Magic Wood, it’s hard to walk past it without at least giving it a thought. It’s one of the first lines ever brushed in Magic Wood and over 10 years later it still hasn’t seen an ascent.
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Until today!

No mention of the all important grade, but looking at Hukkataival’s 27 Crags ticklist one can see that he has done almost 50 V14s or harder so it will be interesting to see where he comes out on this problem.

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Mapping Yosemite’s Granite

Fascinating study being done by Roger Putnam on the different types of granite that make up the most famous granite formation in the world:

To get a more complete and detailed picture, Putnam spent six weeks doing fieldwork on El Capitan, in May and June of last year. During that time he climbed the entire face three times and rappelled all the way down twice. He also climbed numerous shorter routes, always working with an experienced climber as partner.
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“Well, we didn’t”

Emily Harrington with a very honest look back on a trip she took to Morocco to climb with Hazel Findlay for the 2013 Reel Rock Film Tour:

I had never climbed a big wall like that before, with such difficult and engaging climbing, daring and dangerous runouts, and for such a long period of time. The entire experience was utterly exhausting.
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The film crew seemed stressed at first at our hesitation to go back and try again, as if the story wouldn’t be complete without another try, but what if we didn’t want to try again? Well, we didn’t.

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New Blog Post And V14 Repeat For Dave Graham

Dave Graham, writing for sponsor Five Ten:

Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident that crunked out my left knee, then delves into the making of The Island Volume One, and then follows my last month of country hoping out here in Europe. Life is good! I hope you all enjoy!

I’m not sure what happened, but Graham somehow fails to mention that one time I said what’s up to him at SCS Nationals. Five Ten must have edited that out I guess.
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On a related note, Graham is in Switzerland where he did the 2nd ascent of The Full Circle, a V14 established by Nalle Hukkataival.  Graham comments on 8a:

Super syked to climb this rig. Crazy tension moves, resistant, and on not the best grips, shits not easy! Brushed it up with Moix and crew, then battled it out over next three rainy days, and somehow sent it!
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STOKED! First hard boulder post ski accident/ knee destruction. 2nd ascent, just hours after Nalle did the FA.

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DPM Issue 24

After the initial excitement of being free wore off, my interest in reading Deadpoint Magazine has waned a bit.
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 I wasn’t really enjoying the articles and the interface for the online magazine actually makes it pretty annoying to read through.
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However, I flipped through the latest issue and enjoyed it quite a bit.  It features articles about and interviews with Kai Lightner and Nalle Hukkataival, and it also includes several “lost” videos from a trip Daniel Woods took to Switzerland back in 2011.  The videos include footage of him climbing three V14-15 boulders with repeats of Ill Trill, Practice Of The Wild and Believe In Two.

Check it out here.

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