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→ Ondra, Kim Win In Valence∞

Posted November 5, 2013 at 10:05 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra puts the rest of the World Cup circuit on notice:

Valence in France: this was the stage chosen by Adam Ondra to celebrate his return to the Lead World Cup after three years of absence. And last night the 20-year-old from the Czech Republic could not have made a more convincing comeback, winning with the grit and class that enabled him, in 2009, to win the Lead World Cup in his debut year in senior competitions at a mere 16 years of age.

Sean McColl, who took 2nd for the men, has a nice recap of the event from his perspective that you can read here.  The full replay of the event can be seen here.

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→ Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 7:58 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham’s  The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he considers to be his hardest problem yet:

Every attempt was a gamble and I had to just give it my all. For most of my ascents, I can pin point when I am going to send.
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This one was not the case. I just convinced myself that one day would be the “lucky” day and I would never have to go back again.

Woods spent some 13 days working the problem before succeeding which, when you think about it, is really not that long in the grand scheme of things.  Imagine what he could do if he had to spend multiple years to complete a project.
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 Can a boulder problem that hard even exist?

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→ Foundation’s Edge∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 9:11 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Graham, writing for The Island about his FA of Foundation’s Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland:

It was an awesome climb. I battled it out, got super pumped, and didn’t kill myself falling off wet top out.
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19 moves, and about 12 meters long, and one my favorite pieces of climbing I have ever done.

The sequence is powerful and tensiony, yet flowing. I love the body positions you get into while you climb it. Very athletic, yet balancy.

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→ Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project∞

Posted November 2, 2013 at 7:36 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook:

Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness.
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Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like a costochondral seperation. I am headed home to try and heal as quickly as possable.

Best of luck to Tommy as he recovers.
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 What this means for the 2013 effort on the Dawn Wall is unclear, but between the 16 day government shutdown and this, the odds of the route going this year don’t look real great from here.

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→ New Bloc Times∞

Posted October 31, 2013 at 12:07 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

The bouldering in Australia’s Grampians, and the sector Buandik in particular, has gotten wide attention the past couple of years as climbers like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Ian Dory, Paul Robinson and others have visited, raising the area’s profile considerably1.  As is often the case though, they are not the first climbers to visit these “new” areas.
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 For more background on some of the local activity that has taken place before, during and after these climbers’ visits, the blog New Bloc Times has a nice collection of words, pictures and videos that describe more of the history of these incredible looking areas.

  1.  Including with this pair of new videos of Nalle Hukkataival doing a few new problems ↩
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→ Paul Robinson Repeats Jaws II∞

Posted October 31, 2013 at 8:01 am · Comments { 24 } ·

After having done five 5.14’s including the only repeat of Dave Graham’s 5.14+ Psychedelic, Paul Robinson took it up a notch with a repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH yesterday:

I spent two days falling off of the top and finally today, 10/30, I managed to make the fifth ascent of jaws II, 5.15a. This marks my hardest sport climb to date and a dream realized, to climb both v15 and 5.15. The psyche is high as I leave Rumney on a high note.

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→ Three 5.14d’s In One Day By…Guess Who∞

Posted October 28, 2013 at 8:36 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Adam Ondra is set to compete in the upcoming Lead World Cups in Valence, France and  in Kranj, Slovenia, but before doing that he’s made a stop in the Frankenjura where he’s done three 5.14d’s in a single day according to his 8a scorecard.

He started off with a second go repeat of The Elder Statesman followed by a second go repeat of The House Of Schock, and then he finished up the trifecta with a repeat of Sever The Wicked Hand.  Not content, as usual, he then finished up the day with a second go repeat of Wut zum Leben (5.14b).

Not bad.

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